Okay, our dryer started popping the breaker. When you reset it, it’d work, but popped it a couple more times, then the breaker got really stiff. So I replaced it. It’s 20 years old. It was just a guess.
Now the dryer worked and didn’t pop the breaker, but it stopped heating.
I verified no heat, but didn’t do any diag at that point.
Did some online research. The usual suspects were mentioned: Element, t-stats, fuse, etc. All the things in the back.
One site said if the element shorted, could throw the breaker. Makes sense.
So…at this point, I have replaced them all.
Cycling t-stat
Thermal Fuse
Element
Both t-stats on the element housing…the one right at the element connections and the upper one.
Still no heat. These things I simply ordered, as all of them together I think were less than 50 bucks and were all old and original, I figured if I am going to open up the back, they’re so cheap why not all?
So NOW…I’ve gotten farther into it. Here is the symptom we actually have, and unfortunately I don’t know if this was the case prior or not, because the wife always leaves the buzzer turned off:
It runs as soon as you turn the timer on. You don’t have to push the Start button. Further, if you turn the timer to "Off", and you turn the buzzer on, the buzzer will NEVER stop buzzing.
It’ll turn off if you turn the buzzer switch (which is also the Start button) off, but that’s is. No idea how long it’s been like that, because like I said, the wife always leaves it off.
So, Cliff notes:
No heat
All t-stats, fuse, cycling switch and element are new, and test fine with a DVOM.
Runs when you turn timer on, buzzer never shuts off.
I have tested the On button, it is open and then closed when you push it.
Final test I did: Left On Button completely unhooked and plugged dryer in. Switched timer to on and dryer came on. No heat still, though.
I’m perplexed. Thinking it’s got to be the timer, but it’s not a $10 part, so want to be sure. There was no schematic inside, either.
Thanks in advance for any insight!