Dryer basket turns, but there is no heat. I downloaded the manual and read several VERY HELPFUL blogs. Pulled the dryer cabinet apart and tested. Item numbers are from the Dryer Bulkhead Parts diagram. Also found the wiring diagram in the little plastic pouch inside the cabinet.
Heating element (#14) measures 11.2 ohms; diagram says 10 - 16.7 so I assume that is good.
Both the switches on side of heater casing (#47 and 48) measure Zero Ohms. I’m assuming they are good?
A thermal limiter switch, (#50) measures infinite resistance. Because the machine is cold, should that also be Zero? Is that likely the problem?
Zero ohms for s 47 and 48 means they’re open. Replace them. Generally it is recommended that if you replace one thermostat on your dryer, that you go ahead and replace 'em all at the same time.
Zero ohms for s 47 and 48 means they’re open. Replace them. Generally it is recommended that if you replace one thermostat on your dryer, that you go ahead and replace 'em all at the same time.
— End quote
Maybe I didn’t give enough info. I thought zero VOLTAGE across a switch indicated an open switch and that zero (or almost zero) RESISTANCE indicated a closed switch. I was measuring zero resistance, not voltage. So wouldn’t that indicate that those two switches are good?
And please feel free to get very basic. The F I got in my second semester Freshman Physics course (heat, light, sound, electricity) convinced me to change majors - I remember Twinkle Twinkle Little Star, E equals IR and not much more.
That’s what I was thinking but I’ve never tried anything other than mechanical fixes to my appliances. This will be first electrical so I appreciate the confirmatin that I’m probably on the right track.
If you’re already mechanically inclined, and willing to slow down enough to remain SAFE while you work, you’ll find that you can handle the electrical components like any pro. I had an electricity instructor advise me, "Always touch a wire as if it could potentially be the last wire you’ll ever touch".
jltaylor13 said:
I have a whirlpool dryer that still turns but has no heat. It is about 4 yrs old. There are no circuit breakers blown and the lint duct is clear. When it was new this happened and they replaced a "Hi Limit Safety Kit" under the warranty. Unfortunately, my dryer is in a basement and the lint ducting travels up quite a bit with several turns through concrete wall. The repairman told me that it was likely to happen again. I am very handy with fixing things but have little experience with electrical. The dryer acts like it is working normal, sounds normal and has plenty of air flow out the ducting, just no heat. Any help here?? It is a Model LEB6300PW1. Thanks!
There are a few parts in the heating circuit which have to be tested for continuity. They are:
(heat, light, sound, 