Whirplpool Dishwasher not drying

Dishwasher Repair
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1

I have a Whirlpool DU810SWLQ0 that is around 5 years old. It has quit drying the top rack but the bottom does fine. It used to do a good job of drying.

I replaced the heating element about a month ago, and have even experimented with putting no dishes in the bottom rack, but the top rack still remains damp.

I am keeping it on the hot dry rather than air dry.

Any ideas on what else to check?

3

Are you using JET-DRY or another rinse aid??? Make SURE your hot water is at LEAST 120-125 degrees going into the unit!!

4

Try using Cascade Complete and Jet-Dry, I find that 50-75% of washability problems are soap related!!! Also, make SURE that the water is HOT,HOT!!! Fill the MAIN WASH soap cup 1/2-3/4 full and try this!!!:slight_smile:

5

The Model Number should have a couple more digits at the end.

Check that the vent is open so the steam can escape.

6

Try this DU810SWLQ0. That was my mistake, going by memory amd photos on the internet.

Vent is clear. It used to be I could see the steam escaping, but now, this happens when the machine is washing, but not drying.

7

Here is your parts breakdown
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=504693

Here is a tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203385496.pdf

Sounds like your heater is not working.
Could be the timer but more likely the heating element itself or the thermal fuse.
Check them for continuity. Remember to remove the wire from any component you are checking with a meter yo ensure that you are not measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also make sure power is off when measuring ohms. Fuse should be 0 ohms, not sure about the heating element probably somewhere in between 10 and 40 ohms.

If both the above are OK then next most likely culprit would be the timer re: bad contacts

If you do not have a meter you could remove the wires from the thermal fuse, short them together, tape them up so they cannot short to the frame and give it a try. Do not leave the unit like this, do not run it unattended, replace the fuse if it is blown. This is a safety device and not replacing it could cause a house fire.

The best way is with a meter. If you do not have one I would like to suggest you purchase one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. It could save you ordering an unnecessary part so may pay for itself and you end up owning a very useful tool.
There is a good sticky on meter usage at the top of this forum.

8

Denman:

I apologize for the delay, I just found your reply.

I have a couple of questions for you though. I do have a multimeter I can use to test it with, but am not real good with it and have no instructions.

When I test using this, do I set it on the Ohm setting to check the continuity? And then if so, is it better to say totally remove the heating element, touch the probes to both ends of it to get the reading?

Also you mentioned the thermal fuse. When looking at the diagrams of the machine, I see a fuse in the tub assembly parts. Would your guess be that this is the fuse we are talking about? Also on it would I be better of to totally remove the fuse to check its continuity.

Thanks for your help.

9

When I test using this, do I set it on the Ohm setting to check the continuity?
I usually just use ohms but continuity will do as long as your meter still give an ohms reading, if it is just a beep it is useless.

And then if so, is it better to say totally remove the heating element, touch the probes to both ends of it to get the reading?
Leave the device in the machine just remove the wire from one side or both if you want

Only a couple things on meter usage in ohms/resistance

  1. Make sure the power is off to the machine you are testing. Leaving it on could blow your meter.
  2. Always remove the wires from one side of any device you are measuring, this prevents reading an alternate/parallel circuit path
  3. Touch your meter leads together before starting, then you will know that it will read a zero and if there is any offset
  4. When measuring for a short (closed contacts) use the lowest ohms scale re: 0 to 200 ohms (depends on the meter).
  5. When measuring for resistance use the appropriate scale if you know what the resistance should be. For instance if you are trying to measure 19 kilohms use the 20 kilohm scale. Lets say the device is actually 21 kilohms then it will read as an open on the 20K scale but depending on the device variance it might still be good so always try a higher scale just to see if it is really open.

There is a good sticky at the top of this forum

Would your guess be that this is the fuse we are talking about?
Yes

Also on it would I be better of to totally remove the fuse to check its continuity.
No. If possible always measure the device in place, who knows it could be open, you move it, it closes, measures OK and now you have an error which may take hours to find.

The below is just an example and does not apply to your unit but may come in handy in the furure
It is best to check the unit in place. On some devices you could get a short inside of it to ground re: to a stainless tub. With the unit in place you can quickly check its resistance to the ground/tub. To do this you do have to remove the wires from both sides of the device

Hope the above helps and that I explained it OK.
It is second nature to me so I have to think what I actually do when measuring something.