I recently replaced the heating element but it still is taking forever to dry. I just started using a voltage meter and I think I’m using it right. Element checks out as good. I think I read the cycling thermostat could be the problem next. I tried checking it…the two terminals where the red wires attach show the piece is good. But if I touch the two terminals where the smaller purple wires connect to…it shows bad. Is this the problem or am I just not checking it right? Thank for your help.
The operating thermostat can be bad, but I agree with Eddie the dryer vent is the most likely cause for this problem. Make sure there is good airflow all the way outside. http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/clothes-dryer-repair.html
I pulled the dryer vent off the wall and ran a cycle venting inside and it is no better.
but, when I check the operating thermostat with a volt meter it shows its good. Am I doing something wrong with the voltage meter?
Thanks
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=LEC5000PQ0
Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208528187.pdf
As you know you need heat and air flow for good drying.
When you had the unit off the vent did you check that the unit has both.
Does changing the temp setting do anything?
If not you have a temp regulation problem re: thermostat etc.
Air flow can be drastically reduced if:
- Blower wheel is clogged with lint
- Filter screen has a coating caused by fabric softener
- Sometimes the blower wheel thread can strip
- You are actually sucking the air past the heating coils and through the drum so if the drum seals are leaking you pull unheated air into the drum. Usually this will cause the temp fuse on the heater to blow because the operating thermostat on the blower sees a lower temp and causes the unit to overheat.
On the meter usage see below.
Your operating thermostat has an internal heater so with the unit unplugged and at least one side of the device you are trying to measure disconnected.
The contacts should read 0 ohms, use your most sensitive scale.
The internal heater should measure 7,000 ohms (see the wiring diagram).
METER USAGE
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
thank you for all your ideas. I can see you have really spent some time on this. I am at my wits end. I have vacumed every crack and cranny. Perhaps this model is just a lemon and takes 90 minutes to dry. I’m not clear why the thermostat checks out fine, the element checks fine. I took the venting out of the wall. I’m at a loss. You would expect a little less aggravation from a three year old machine. Any last thoughts anyone???
[SIZE=3]90 mins doesn’t seem that bad is your washer spinning out the clothes good? I mean they should be dry in 60-80 but 90 isn’t terrible. Make sure you are using the proper spin speed on the washer. [/SIZE]
yes washer is doing its thing clothes are coming out of washer right. I just followed up on an earlier suggestion of running a load through the low heat cycle and seeing if there was a difference. No difference…clothes came out exactly the same on high heat or low heat…damp…It takes about two cycles either way to dry a load right…sometimes 3 if its a big load.
thanks I will move forward with your suggestions. It makes sense
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thanks I will move forward with your suggestions. It makes sense
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I have the same issues with my whirlpool dryer. I have to put it on two cycles to dry. ( my washer is great) I am going to check the seals to make sure it’s not tripping with cooler air coming through. Next is to replace that cycling/operating thermostat I guess.
I went ahead and ordered the thermostat…Not sure about the seal deal…it seemed a little out of my league. I’m hoping this is it…otherwise, I guess its that and I will have to figure it out. But for a three, four year old dryer I wouldn’t expect the seals to go and I would expect an electronic issue. We shall see. I will let you know if the fix works as I should be getting the part by Thursday.
where are these sensors?
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where are these sensors?
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They are the silver colored metal bars that are located inside the dryer cavity that sense wet/dryness of the clothes. There are two bars that run horizontal on the outside of the lint catcher. The lint catcher is held inplace by 3 screws that are accessed from inside the dryer cavity ( where you put your clothes). remove the three screws, carefully jiggle the cover off and remove the two sensor wires. You can then take the whole thing to your kitchen sink, wash with a toothbrush all the lint away and further remove the sensors and clean the underside of them and thoroughly dry and replace. reverse installation back to your dryer. give it a whirl, no pun intended.
hey…i put the new thermostat in with no change. I took the lint catcher off like you…a little mess but not to bad. where are the sensors you spoke of? thanks
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hey…i put the new thermostat in with no change. I took the lint catcher off like you…a little mess but not to bad. where are the sensors you spoke of? thanks
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hummm, I think I should have read that you have a different model. I don’t think your has the sensors. Clean the lint catcher out well and see if you can’t open up the front of your dryer and clean it all out, keep a bowl handy for change cause there should be tons. at the bottom of your lint catcher is another piece that collects dirt and heavy lint, clean that out too,
thanks Frosty…I will try that