Wiring Schematic Wanted Jenn-Air SVE47600B

Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)
,
1

I have a Jenn-Air Slide in Electric Oven with down draft exhaust. This is the second one, and has been acting up for the last few years. The first one they replaced at cost with this one!

The power in the mountains where I live is quite erratic, lots of brown outs?
I know this might be some of the problems killing the electronics in this oven?

The Clock Display is now completely out, a few days ago, I cycled power and it worked for a while. I have it all apart, and BEFORE buying a new Display Board (71001799), I would like to get schematics and wiring so I can check power voltages on the four pin connector and do other trouble shooting?

Can anyone supply a link or email a service manual or wiring for Jenn-Air SVE47600B?

Thanks,
Mike:)
Mike@DogItDesign.com

3

— Begin quote from MotoDog;342765

I have a Jenn-Air Slide in Electric Oven with down draft exhaust. This is the second one, and has been acting up for the last few years. The first one they replaced at cost with this one!

The power in the mountains where I live is quite erratic, lots of brown outs?
I know this might be some of the problems killing the electronics in this oven?

The Clock Display is now completely out, a few days ago, I cycled power and it worked for a while. I have it all apart, and BEFORE buying a new Display Board (71001799), I would like to get schematics and wiring so I can check power voltages on the four pin connector and do other trouble shooting?

Can anyone supply a link or email a service manual or wiring for Jenn-Air SVE47600B?

Thanks,
Mike:)
Mike@DogItDesign.com

— End quote

Mike,

Sorry, can’t accomodate you on the diagram or schematic,

But I can tell you what checks to make at the ERC for no display.

[part]AP4088560[/part]

Turn power off to the range,

Open the oven door,

Remove 4 screws, along the bottom of the control panel, holding the panel to the front frame flange.

Pull down and out on the complete panel, to remove the panel,
(you can use an oven rack in the upper most position as a shelf, and set the panel on a towel).

Disconnect the J1(4 wire) connector from the back of the ERC,

Restore power to the range,
*** Be careful, this is a live voltage test, there’s a lot of 120 VAC wiring***

On the four wire connector, not the ERC,

Pin#1 to Pin#2 you should read 12 Volts DC
Pin#3 to Pin#4 you should read 20 Volts AC

If you DO have these voltages, you will need the ERC/Clock.
If you DO NOT have these voltages, you will need to check the J1 harness for damage and replace the relay board located on the back of the range,

[part]AP4008573[/part]

Yes, you are correct, brown outs and low voltage problems, do wreak havoc on electronic components of this range, as well as other products in the home.

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

4

The "+12V" measures 15.1? I connected the PCB up to a lab supply and ran pin 2 up to 15 volts. The 5V on J2 read 5.3 and the board drew not measurable current on test. It looks like the 12 is not critical?

No Display now, even though on the range the AC is on pins 3-4?

Thanks,
Mike

12

5

— Begin quote from MotoDog;343384

The "+12V" measures 15.1? I connected the PCB up to a lab supply and ran pin 2 up to 15 volts. The 5V on J2 read 5.3 and the board drew not measurable current on test. It looks like the 12 is not critical?

No Display now, even though on the range the AC is on pins 3-4?

Thanks,
Mike

12

— End quote

Mike,

Sorry, but the 12 Volts DC across pins 1 and 2 on the J1 connector, is critical,

That circuit is the power supply to the display circuit, that light up the LED’s in the display circuit of the control board.

You may want to re check your findings.

:cool: :cool: :cool:

6

goto Radfio shack and get a 100 micro Farad 50 or 100volt electrolytic axial lead cap. replace C3 on the display board and fire it back up. for $1.50 yer wife will think yer a god. I just did it. worked perfectly. c9driver@hotmail if you need more guidance to final. cheers- billy

7

— Begin quote from c9driver@hotmail.com;348525

goto Radfio shack and get a 100 micro Farad 50 or 100volt electrolytic axial lead cap. replace C3 on the display board and fire it back up. for $1.50 yer wife will think yer a god. I just did it. worked perfectly. c9driver@hotmail if you need more guidance to final. cheers- billy

— End quote

That may work,

Provided the PRB, and the J1 harness are intact and feeding the 12 VDC and the 20 VAC to the display board.

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

8

— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;348580

That may work,

Provided the PRB, and the J1 harness are intact and feeding the 12 VDC and the 20 VAC to the display board.

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

— End quote

sounds very technical Hefey,

seems like most of the display boards are the same across models, so if the display board is the same, and going dim… it should be C3. I researched this a bit and really just stumbled across the whole c3 thing. i thought i’d give it a shot and get some use out of my dusty degree and tools. maybe i over simplify things but in my world, easiest is best. B.B.'s are falling out of my ears at an alarming rate these dayz.

good luck and all the best.
b

9

— Begin quote from c9driver@hotmail.com;348741

sounds very technical Hefey,

seems like most of the display boards are the same across models, so if the display board is the same, and going dim… it should be C3. I researched this a bit and really just stumbled across the whole c3 thing. i thought i’d give it a shot and get some use out of my dusty degree and tools. maybe i over simplify things but in my world, easiest is best. B.B.'s are falling out of my ears at an alarming rate these dayz.

good luck and all the best.
b

— End quote

C9,

It’s a more elaborate system than need be,

It took J/A 10 or 15 years to simplify it.

But it’s a great unit and great range when it works, and usually simple to repair when you break it down to the simplest terms.

As for BB’s … I’m waiting for a response for my application to the "CRC"(can’t remember crap) Association…

Good Luck
And Best to you as well,

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

10

Showed my husband your posts… He took part out went to radio shack spent 1.61 had friend solder it on… Now oven is beaming with light… reads beautifully. I bought the 177.00 part before I found this blog so now am in process of sending part back. Just want to thank you so much for saving me big bucks!!

11

— Begin quote from ovenfixed;490920

Showed my husband your posts… He took part out went to radio shack spent 1.61 had friend solder it on… Now oven is beaming with light… reads beautifully. I bought the 177.00 part before I found this blog so now am in process of sending part back. Just want to thank you so much for saving me big bucks!!

— End quote

Ovenfixxed,

Thanks for the update. Sounds great, and inexpensive, to boot.

It’ll come in handy in the future.

Thanks Again,

Good Luck,
:smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

12

— Begin quote from suchru10;491294

Another question.
Do you have a schematic of the relay conroller pcb AP4008573?
The voltage is 13.2vdc not 12vdc. Maybe another cap is bad?
I’m getting an intermittent problem with the oven lower element coming on.
I have not ohmed it out yet, but it was replaced 2 or 3 years ago.
If I wiggle the element it sometimes starts to work.
I also hear a hi pitch freq coming from thr controller pcb. the element will not work in this condition.
Any thoughts.

— End quote

Suchru,

We have no schematic for a printed circuit board. the manufacturer doesn’t supply that information to us. It sounds like you could have a loose connection in the wiring to the element, in the back of the range, and it could be the cause of the high pitched frequency noise from the control panel. I would not think a 1.2 volt difference would be a problem, in most cases, the manufacturer builds in a minimum 10 % varience in circuits to compensate for possible circuit and voltage spikes. I think you’ll be alright, once you find and take care of the loose connection.

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

13

So… can you show me EXACTLY where "C3" is located so if I can get the 100 micro Farad 50 or 100volt electrolytic axial lead cap from Radio Shack I can fix my wife’s range?

14

— Begin quote from hkevinbarnes;668248

So… can you show me EXACTLY where "C3" is located so if I can get the 100 micro Farad 50 or 100volt electrolytic axial lead cap from Radio Shack I can fix my wife’s range?/q

It will be printed on the circuit board C3 the tall cap by the plug

— End quote

15

— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;491470

Suchru,

We have no schematic for a printed circuit board. the manufacturer doesn’t supply that information to us. It sounds like you could have a loose connection in the wiring to the element, in the back of the range, and it could be the cause of the high pitched frequency noise from the control panel. I would not think a 1.2 volt difference would be a problem, in most cases, the manufacturer builds in a minimum 10 % varience in circuits to compensate for possible circuit and voltage spikes. I think you’ll be alright, once you find and take care of the loose connection.

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

— End quote

It was the Controller PCB

16

— Begin quote from suchru10;668870

It was the Controller PCB

— End quote

Great,
Glad you were able to get your range up and running.
Great job, we hope all goes well for you. Thanks for the update.

Good Luck and Thanks,
:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile: