Dryer just up and quit. Last load seemed hot. Door switch was broken, bypassed it, but still wouldn’t do anything. Thermal fuse, thermal discs, heater element and push to start check OK. Timer runs, pretty sure I checked it correctly for voltage. Motor windings check OK. And it is getting 240 volts. No burned wires. But one red wire to the motor has what looks like clear heat shrink (never saw clear heat shrink before though) and I thought it might have an inline fuse, but if it does it isn’t broken. I get voltage where I should. But I am missing something. I am thinking timer but I want to be sure. I have never seen a timer fail that wouldn’t do something on at least one setting.
It has to be simple.
When you checked the power did you check for 120 volts (Neutral to L1).
This is what powers the motor.
The heating coil and the timer motor use 240 volts on this unit.
If the unit has a drum light does it work as it also uses this 120 volt side of the line.
When you checked the power did you check for 120 volts (Neutral to L1).
This is what powers the motor.
The heating coil and the timer motor use 240 volts on this unit.
If the unit has a drum light does it work as it also uses this 120 volt side of the line.
Yes I checked each line to neutral at power cord terminal block. I also checked by timer and motor for voltage, got 120 volts to neutral. Checked line to line got 240 volts. Drum light does work when I jump the door switch for it.
I didn’t catch the timer motor getting 240 on the schematic, I’m having trouble visualizing that. But the timer motor does run, and the the timer moves.
Thank you for your response.
OK sounds like you have the 240 for the heater and timer motor and also the 120 for the main motor.
Unplug the unit and set it to a mid ccyle.
Check that following timer contacts are closed (0 ohms):
T/W Timer Switch 4
BU/BK contacts.
It is a good idea to disconnect the wires at one side. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
How are you at reading wiring diagrams.
Next would be to attach/tape one meter lead to the Neutral at the plug and then work your way back through the start/motor circuit till you find the open.
If you need help with it just let me know.
denman said:
OK sounds like you have the 240 for the heater and timer motor and also the 120 for the main motor.
Unplug the unit and set it to a mid ccyle.
Check that following timer contacts are closed (0 ohms):
T/W Timer Switch 4
BU/BK contacts.
It is a good idea to disconnect the wires at one side. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
How are you at reading wiring diagrams.
Next would be to attach/tape one meter lead to the Neutral at the plug and then work your way back through the start/motor circuit till you find the open.
If you need help with it just let me know.
I have to really study a diagram, but I can get close. I’m wondering about the 196 degree fuse that is shown close to the motor. Is it in the wire in the clear tubing? If it is bad would that be the killer? I’m pretty sure I checked that. But I’m going to check it again.
I’m wondering about the 196 degree fuse that is shown close to the motor. Is it in the wire in the clear tubing? If it is bad would that be the killer?
No, it is Item 7 in Section 3 on the blower housing and does shut the motor off.
If it is blown check/clean your vent system as it is the most common cause of it’s failure.