Checked the resistance and element seems fine, 28 ohms. Bake element has 120+ volts to each power lead. No visible damage to element. Broil element heats as I would expect during the preheat cycle.
I suspect that even though the bake element is showing low resistance there still is a problem with it since the power seems normal to both leads.
Is there anything else I should check, or just go head and order a new bake element.
Thanks
jw
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=rbs305pdq14
See the attachment for the tech sheet.
I am assuming that you are using Neutral/ground as the reference when you are measuring the element voltage.
This can be confusing as the element circuit does not include Neutral. It is L1 to L2.
Since the element is connected to L2 through the Thermal Fuse you will always see 120 volts on the right side of it (see wiring diagram).
Also if the element is not conducting any current you will see the same 120 volts (L2) on the left side.
If you measure across the element I think you will see 0 volts, therefore it does not heat up.
Since the broil element works, the unit stays in preheat and the element measures OK, I would say that the control board (Item 3 in Control Panel Parts) is shot.
Either the electronics that control the bake relay or the bake relay itself is not closing.
I believe you are correct. I made a mistake and measured the volts across the good element, which simply passed the 120 volts through. I will recheck the volts on L1 line, but I suspect it will be zero else the element would be heating.
Is the bake relay contained on the control board? If so it appears the only option is to replace the board.
Thanks for the reply
jw
Is the bake relay contained on the control board?
Yes
If so it appears the only option is to replace the board.
There are other options but you would need some electronics experience.
re: check the relay coil for continuity.
open up the relay to see if the contacts are OK.
Basically you are checking to see if the relay is the problem.
If it is then there is a possibility that you could find a replacement online and solder in a new relay.
If it is the electronics controlling the relay then you are out of luck because manufacturers do not publish schematics for the boards.
Thanks for the response. I ordered a new control board, and replaced it. Now oven is showing a F2-E1 code - Keypad keytail not connected. However it is connected. I have obviously tried making a "better" connection, and have cleaned the pigtail contacts, but still get error message.
On a hunch I put the old board back in, now same code appears on it. This was not the initial problem, but now appears that the keypad is not working or I have two bad boards. Adding up the cost of a new keypad and a new board and I’m approaching the point of oven replacement.
Any other tips for getting a good connection on reconnecting the keypad pigtail?
Thanks again for the help.
but now appears that the keypad is not working or I have two bad boards.
Very unlikely that this error would show up on two different boards so I doubt it is a control board problem.
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Any other tips for getting a good connection on reconnecting the keypad pigtail?[/COLOR]
Not really you have already done what I would have done.
Is it possible that the ribbon cable got screwed up when you disconnected it.
Perhaps check the tracks with a meter to be sure they are OK. You may not be able to do this depending how the ribbon cable connects into the control panel.
Can also check them for hair line cracks , a magnifying glass help here.
Gently wiggle and push the ribbon cable in on the control panel end.