[SIZE=3]I think the place where the gas comes from is called a VENTURI???[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The top (broiler) is working great gas IS flowing through the venturi.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]No gas flows AT ALL from the bottom (baking). It just stopped a couple days ago.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]We think it’s one of the following…[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]1) "Daul gas safety value"[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]2) "Regulator"[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]3) "Electronic Oven Control" (EOC)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]How do we tell for certain? Thank you in advance. -M[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I think the place where the gas comes from is called a VENTURI???[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The top (broiler) is working great gas IS flowing through the venturi.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]No gas flows AT ALL from the bottom (baking). It just stopped a couple days ago.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]We think it’s one of the following…[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]1) "Daul gas safety value"[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]2) "Regulator"[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]3) "Electronic Oven Control" (EOC)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]How do we tell for certain? Thank you in advance. -M[/SIZE]
— End quote
Mike,
First place to check is your bake burner igniter, Have you done that yet ?
First observe the broil burner igniter for operation, so you’ll know what to look for when you check the bake burner igniter.(select a broil setting).
Remove the oven bottom panel, shield, and flame spreader.
Select a bake temperature and observe the igniter for bright white glow and gas release in approximately 30 to 60 seconds.(like the broil burner did).
I’m pretty sure you’ll find your problem there.
If not, check for 120 VAC on the wires going to the igniter from the oven control. No voltage would indicate a broken wire or bad oven control.
First place to check is your bake burner igniter, Have you done that yet ?
First observe the broil burner igniter for operation, so you’ll know what to look for when you check the bake burner igniter.(select a broil setting).
Remove the oven bottom panel, shield, and flame spreader.
Select a bake temperature and observe the igniter for bright white glow and gas release in approximately 30 to 60 seconds.(like the broil burner did).
I’m pretty sure you’ll find your problem there.
If not, check for 120 VAC on the wires going to the igniter from the oven control. No voltage would indicate a broken wire or bad oven control.
Good Luck,
— End quote
Thanks Joe,
I just learned that the [SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]igniter is in series and draws a specific amount of current. It also has a dual-purpose, since it lights and if it fails to light it performs as a safety device and shuts off the gas (makes great sense). I understand the if it doesn’t have a current of at least 3.2 amps it should be replaced. The igniter can be seen glowing… albeit NO GAS! The question is the AMPS and how to get to the wiring to check. One thing I can say is the igniter is not only glowing… it get pretty hot. In fact, it can light an matchless propane wand we use for the fireplace. Is it safe to assume the igniter or good if it can produce a flame from a propane lighter? Thanks -m[/SIZE][/FONT]
I just learned that the [SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]igniter is in series and draws a specific amount of current. It also has a dual-purpose, since it lights and if it fails to light it performs as a safety device and shuts off the gas (makes great sense). I understand the if it doesn’t have a current of at least 3.2 amps it should be replaced. The igniter can be seen glowing… albeit NO GAS! The question is the AMPS and how to get to the wiring to check. One thing I can say is the igniter is not only glowing… it get pretty hot. In fact, it can light an matchless propane wand we use for the fireplace. Is it safe to assume the igniter or good if it can produce a flame from a propane lighter? Thanks -m[/SIZE][/FONT]
— End quote
No , it’s not a good test,
You really need to know the ampereage draw on the igniter when it is glowing.
You need a clamp on ammeter(that’s the easiest way to check it).
And it must draw at least a constant 3.2 amps (minimum) to open the safety switch in the bake burner valve side of the dual burner valve.
You can check for a coresponding voltage at the safety valve if you have to,
3.2 to 3.6 Volts AC across the 2 wires on the valve terminals, when the igniter is glowing.
There is a simple solution. Just order the igniter from Appliance Parts Pros and install it in the oven. If it would not fix the problem, you can easy return the part due to their very friendly return policy.
There is a simple solution. Just order the igniter from Appliance Parts Pros and install it in the oven. If it would not fix the problem, you can easy return the part due to their very friendly return policy.
The oven igniter [part]AP2150412[/part]
Gene.
— End quote
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Joe /Gene,[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]I have to say both you guys have given me a great deal of confidence.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]You should have seen me on my back (white tailored shirt no less ). I pulled out the VOM and attached it to the broiler igniter above and hit 3.1 AMPS, then to the bake igniter below and hit 2.6 AMPs. If you guys are correct than we saved $400+ avoiding the purchase of a range from Sears. The last thing we needed was to call for service on a 9-10 year old stove… likely wind up spending more than what it’s worth. Part on order… I’m certain there’s a very happy ending at the finish-line. I sense you guys were right-on from the start!! Thank you in advance. -M [/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Ps. For the future can you recommend anyone for water heaters in-and-around Los Angeles (San Fernando Valley)? Not so long ago, we got ripped off in a huge way from a company called Payless Water Heaters. Seems that they thrive on people in crisis… using undisclosed pricing on the phone. We were trusting and EASY targets the day our heater blew up and destroyed our hard wood floor, but that’s all come to an abrupt end. From here on we check references and THEN keep both eyes WIDE OPEN. We also had a resent near unpleasant experience with an HVAC company that I refused to believe, when the technician said my less than 2-year-old “blower motor needed replacement… at $350”. We went ahead and got a 2nd opinion… turned out to be a $35 capacitor. Seems like misdiagnosis is also something to watch out for these days. I feel real bad for people in general, especially old folks that might be easy prey to predators and unskilled mechanics. Seems like I’ll be bragging about my great experiences with you guys on this forum, and with AppliancePartsPros.com for awhile :–). Hope you guys don’t mind my plugged the HVAC guys that did a terrific job for us. These guys are called, Air Wave, (818) 761-1631 and were great. All the best![/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]I have to say both you guys have given me a great deal of confidence.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]You should have seen me on my back (white tailored shirt no less ). I pulled out the VOM and attached it to the broiler igniter above and hit 3.1 AMPS, then to the bake igniter below and hit 2.6 AMPs. If you guys are correct than we saved $400+ avoiding the purchase of a range from Sears. The last thing we needed was to call for service on a 9-10 year old stove… likely wind up spending more than what it’s worth. Part on order… I’m certain there’s a very happy ending at the finish-line. I sense you guys were right-on from the start!! Thank you in advance. -M [/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Ps. For the future can you recommend anyone for water heaters in-and-around Los Angeles (San Fernando Valley)? Not so long ago, we got ripped off in a huge way from a company called Payless Water Heaters. Seems that they thrive on people in crisis… using undisclosed pricing on the phone. We were trusting and EASY targets the day our heater blew up and destroyed our hard wood floor, but that’s all come to an abrupt end. From here on we check references and THEN keep both eyes WIDE OPEN. We also had a resent near unpleasant experience with an HVAC company that I refused to believe, when the technician said my less than 2-year-old “blower motor needed replacement… at $350”. We went ahead and got a 2nd opinion… turned out to be a $35 capacitor. Seems like misdiagnosis is also something to watch out for these days. I feel real bad for people in general, especially old folks that might be easy prey to predators and unskilled mechanics. Seems like I’ll be bragging about my great experiences with you guys on this forum, and with AppliancePartsPros.com for awhile :–). Hope you guys don’t mind my plugged the HVAC guys that did a terrific job for us. These guys are called, Air Wave, (818) 761-1631 and were great. All the best![/SIZE][/FONT]
— End quote
Mike,
We’re glad to have been able to help you, and get you up and running.
(as a side note)
I helped paint my sister’s living room, (in a tux) after a formal affair, that was a hoot… not a drop of paint on the tux, at all.
The Valley was my old route area when I lived in Cal. from Mullholland Dr to Palmdale, and Glendale to Ventura.
Having been gone for so long, I’ve lost touch with all of the servicers that worked that area, and can’t really help you,
). I pulled out the VOM and attached it to the broiler igniter above and hit 3.1 AMPS, then to the bake igniter below and hit 2.6 AMPs. If you guys are correct than we saved $400+ avoiding the purchase of a range from Sears. The last thing we needed was to call for service on a 9-10 year old stove… likely wind up spending more than what it’s worth. Part on order… I’m certain there’s a very happy ending at the finish-line. I sense you guys were right-on from the start!! Thank you in advance. -M 
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