Bosch SHU5315 UC12 control module shorted

Dishwasher Repair
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Bosch SHU5315 UC12 - unit is close to 5 years old (could not find purchase receipt)
See attached pictures of Control Module & plastic door

Top board shorted near power connector (nearest heater, Hi-Limit & flow switch)

3 questions:

1.) Is this irrepairable (within reason)? I’m assuming it is - ie get a new board AP2802870

2.) Any ideas on cause, or is this common? humidity and water vapor maybe? Could this happen when I install the new board?

3.) How are the plastic door guards positioned (see picture). I’ve read Gene’s "slide them back in over the hinge, lining up the door guard square tab with the hinge lever square notch" - but it’s still a puzzle to me.

Thanks, Tim

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Bosch & Siemans model dishwashers recalled due to fire hazard.

Bosch Home Appliances has announced a voluntary recall to repair certain Bosch dishwashers manufactured from May 1999 - July 2005.

Check to see if your Dishwasher is included in the recall

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the listed model dishwashers and contact the repair hotline for a free repair.

Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact the BSH Home Appliances at (800) 856-9226 anytime or visit the link above.

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What I couldn’t believe, was when I called, the CSR said, "I am delighted to tell you… your dishwasher is not covered by the recall. Too bad it does not work."

4

Heating element of GE GHDA485N10CS does not come on. only 14 months old. Everything else works ok, goes through full cycles. How do you determine repair and replace non-working parts???
Thanks

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Here are your parts> Yours is probably just newer but if ordering parts be sure to use your model number as there may have been some changes
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=GHDA485N10CS

Easiest way is to check the heating element with a meter.
Remove power from the unit, unplug one side of the element and measure it.
Usually between 10 to 25 ohms.

If OK check that the wires from the time/control to the heater have continuity. Could be one of them has kinked and is open.

If all OK the control board probably needs replacing re: the contacts on the heating relay have burned up or the relay is not closing.

If the element is shot you may also want to replace it’s sealing grommets, in case they get screwed up when you remove the element.

NOTE: Getting tech info on GE’s is difficult to say the least. They like to keep is a secret. Hopefully when you remove the kick plate you will find the wiring diagram which should be very useful. Some units use a thermistor or a thermostat to regulate the heater, I could not find either in the parts breakdown but may have missed them. If the unit does use these then they are another possible cause.
Also check for a hi-limit thermostat wired into the lines going to the heater., if there is one it should be 0 ohms.

Perhaps someone else will jump in who has better info on this unit.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.