I ordered a clock/timer part # 316080103 but it does not appear to be complete. The new part is missing some little pins that are inserted into the center holes on the button stubs on the new part. Without these little pins the clock/timer cannot be operated because these pins are actually the one that do the pushing into the clock/timer. Does anyone know what I am talking about. Please, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, OMB:confused:
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=FEF389WECE
I think you are referring to Item 18 in Section 1.
Click on the picture to get more info/views on them.
I would have thought that the old ones should have worked OK but am not sure of this.
I have replaced the clock/timer on my Frigidaire range and am now getting a F3 Error Code. Is anyone familiar with this code? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, OMB:confused:
— Begin quote from denman;510635
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FEF389WECE Frg(v1) / Electric Range | AppliancePartsPros.com
I think you are referring to Item 18 in Section 1.
Click on the picture to get more info/views on them.
I would have thought that the old ones should have worked OK but am not sure of this.
— End quote
Following is an error code chart
http://appliancedigest.com/index.php?/files/go/5f5670e1005adff5252f1882edb3eb50/frigidaire-range-fault-codes-and-rtd-chart-service-manual
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.
I cannot confirm that it applies to your unit but it looks like F3 is a sensor error. Also I do not know why the lock light is on but it could be that if the unit thinks it is overheated it automatically locks the door.
Here is info on how to check the sensor.
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html
Check out 7, 8, 20 and 21.
Yes I would try the old board
I have taken the temperature sensor and have double checked. It checked out at 1133 Ohms. Then I placed in the sun, it’s 103 in South TX right now, for about 1 minute and then it checked out at 1203 Ohms. Is this what is suppose to happen? Help is always appreciated.
Thanks, OMB
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— Begin quote from bena8837;511385
Thanks very much for the response Denman. The LOCKED light is on but the door is not locked. Nothing on the oven works. I just replaced the clock/timer because the oven started acting up. The temperature would be set at 350 and it would flunctuate. I still have the old clock/timer and I did not have the error code or the locked light on. I am thinking of putting in the old part to see what happens. I check the temperature sensor before ordering the clock/timer and it checked out ok at 1000. What do you think?
Really appreciate the help, OMB
— End quote
Yes resistance rises with temperature.
See the following
http://www.applianceaid.com/oven_temp_sensors_help.html
I have replace the old clock/timer in the range and I do not get any of the problems I get with the new one. I have called for a new Clock/Timer replacement and should get it in 5-7 days. I will keep you posted.
Many thanks for you help, I really appreciate it.
OMB
— Begin quote from denman;511654
Yes resistance rises with temperature.
See the following
http://www.applianceaid.com/oven_temp_sensors_help.html
— End quote
Machine works fine but won’t spin. If I start it by hand several turns it will spin up to speed. Agitates perfect so I don,t think it’s a motor run capacitor. The beltis perfect. Is there a clutch inside the transmission on this model? If so I hope it’s as easy and cheap as the Whirlpools I’ve done?
…when I get it to spin by hand…no clothes and maybe little water.
Model number appears to be for a dryer.
Eric
Vbxr1090d0ww
There is no clutch on this model. Is the large pulley rotating during spin mode? If so, is the transmission also rotating?
Eric