clothes dryer wont heat timer wont work

Dryer Repair
1

I have a Ge clothes dryer that was working fine then one day the timer stopped working. The dryer runs it just wont automatically shut off and it will not heat properly. It has to run two or three times longer than it normally would to dry a load of clothes. Once the load has dried the clothes feel hot and the dryer inside is hot but load another load of clothes and it still takes twice as long as it should to dry them. Any suggestions? I dont know if the timer has anything to do with it or if that is just a coincidence. Thanks for any suggestions. Its really been a good dryer so if its something I could fix I would like to.

3

Check the air flow from the dryer to see if you have an obstruction.
Please post your model number for additional information.

Nat

4

Try running the machine in a timed dry mode.
If the timer now advances, it may be that half the heater coil is shot.
Some GE’s use a dual coil depending on which side burns out, it can also stop the timer in Auto modes.

Here is an example of that type of dryer
http://www.applianceaid.com/image/geediagram.JPG

If you do not have the wiring diagram it may be glued to the back or they like to put them in the control console.

5

I cannot find any info on your Model Number but if I look up other KUDL01 units none of them have a reversing motor.

Perhaps the following will help
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/4e8b0d2df77cd7e585256cd800643b6d/$FILE/KD01.pdf

I would check the motor windings for continuity with a meter.
If OK
I would check to see if it is getting voltage when it should.
If OK then and the motor turns by hand (not jammed) then it is toast.
If no voltage
Check that the wires have continuity back to the control board.
If OK
Then probably your control board is toast.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.

6

If these are the first two steps for the freon when it enters the evaporator coils then it sounds like you are low on freon.