I have a Maytag Atlantis washer, 8 years old. Recently the cold water periodically stopped working. Sometimes it just works, most of the time it doesn’t. When it is not working, when filling (or trying to rinse, for that matter) in cold, I will hear a hum, but no water. The warm water works fine and the Hot works fine on all cycles. The cold works on no cycle. There is no blockage in the hoses or internals of the machine, because if I reverse the hoses to the faucets (cold to hot), setting the washer to fill on hot will properly draw cold and setting the washer on cold will draw nothing (even though attached to the hot faucet). Warm will draw either way - with the hoses reversed or as normal. I replaced the valve/solenoid and it did not solve the problem; I’m wondering if it is the temperature control switch, the board, or something else. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help!
With the auto temperature switch off, the ATC board is disabled although power to the solenoids is still through the board so a bad board is still a possiblity. ATC is automatically disabled during rinse and extra rinse cycles by the timer. You say warm setting works. Is it actually warm water or just hot? Warm is just both valves on mixing hot and cold (ATC off). Turn the hot water spigot off, set temp to warm/warm, if you get cold water, the ATC board is OK. Now try it set to warm/cold. If you don’t get cold water, the temp switch is bad. When the temp switch is set to cold/cold, you should have continuity across the red wire and blue wire, or you can just place a jumper across the red and blue buss bars on the switch and see if you now get cold water.
Eric
Eric - that did it, thank you!
"Is it actually warm water or just hot? Warm is just both valves on mixing hot and cold (ATC off). Turn the hot water spigot off, set temp to warm/warm, if you get cold water, the ATC board is OK."
Reply: It’s actually warm water, the blending of hot/cold.
"Now try it set to warm/cold. If you don’t get cold water, the temp switch is bad. When the temp switch is set to cold/cold, you should have continuity across the red wire and blue wire, or you can just place a jumper across the red and blue buss bars on the switch and see if you now get cold water."
I jumped the two wires, and instantly cold water-- looks like I’m in for a new temperature switch. Thanks again!