The dsihwasher fails to drain and leaves 3 in of water in the bottom.
I removed the screen and cleaned out the intake and screen located in the sump. The drain line is not kinked. Hot water does drain into the disposer but too much still remains in the bottom.
Is there a way to extend the time of the pumped drain cycle?
Is there way to bypass the wash cycle and switch to the pumped drain cycle to remove the water?
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=209584
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Is there a way to extend the time of the pumped drain cycle? [/COLOR]
No
Is there way to bypass the wash cycle and switch to the pumped drain cycle to remove the water?
As far as I know you just move the timer to a position where it should pump out and close the door.
First remove the kick plate and check if the wash/drain solenoid is being pulled all the way down.
Next remove the drain hose from the sink drain or disposer. Sometimes crud can build up where the hose goes over the fitting.
Next check the Piston & Nut Item 564 in the "Body parts" section. It is under the filter screen assy at the back of the tub. Unscrew it. Left hand thread, I think, am not sure about this.
Could also be stuff in the pump or sump but usually you would notice poor dish wash results.
Could be some other things but the above should keep you busy for a while.
Thanks for the reply.
I gave up and called for the GE repairman. He diagnosed a bad check valve @ rear of tub. The pump was also beginning to leak. We then diagnosed this was unit was on a recall for a wiring problem…so, I’m shopping for a new unit.
I have a Maytag Quiet Series 300 Dishwasher, model MDB5601AWB.
It wil not start. The only buttons that light up are Heavy wash/High temp, Light wash, Rinse only, & Delay button.
Normal wash, start/cancel and all the rest do not light up. Just worked 2 days ago. Any advice on a part that may need replacing before I have to call in someone.
Thank you all in advance.
You may want to first check the electric connection to see if the ground or neutral has come loose.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=MDB5601AWB
Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/TechSheets_11_17_09/Schematic%20-%20W10179503.pdf
The usual way to troubleshoot is to check the keypad/console keys with a meter. If it checks out OK then replace the control board.
Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better.
You could try the following but it is a long shot as I cannot see a common line for all the keys that do not work.
Does sound like the control board is toast.
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.
Installed new control board. All buttons light up except "NORMAL WASH" and start will not work. Installed old board back in and only light on is "HEATING CYCLE" (the light to the left of the number 3 is continuously lit and will not shut off).
Do you think it might be the panel or latch?
Thank you in advance,
Rita
PS
Did everything else you suggested and no luck:(
Do you think it might be the panel or latch?
I doubt this is it but I would check them with a meter just to be sure they are closing.
Could also remove power from the unit and short them out, reassemble the unit and give it a try… Just be sure that the door is closed when re-applying power unless you want a shower. This is a pain so I would only do it as a last resort.
Another possibility is that you received a defective board.
Try to get into diagnostics.
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Did everything else you suggested and no luck[/COLOR]
From the above I am assuming you checked the keypad with a meter and it checked out OK.