My GE dishwasher runs all cycles and can hear pump working and spraying.
There is no air gap, plumbed directly into sink drain.
Will drain partially, and I have disconnected drain hose and put in bucket on floor and see no blockage.
I have opened inside drain and checked screens, not blocked.
Is there a timer setting or sensor that could be bad?
What else can I try?
Hi Steve,
You have to check:
The piston and nut (#564 on the [break down diagram](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=514455&&model_id=209597"]break down diagram[/URL]). Unscrew it and check the cone.
Remove the dishwasher. Remove the body valve (#560 on the [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=514455&&model_id=209597)) and check the flapper inside.
Here are the break down diagrams for the GE dishwasher http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=514455&&model_id=209597, similar to yours.
Gene.
Thanks Dags1998, I should have pulled that cover too. I just didn’t think that valve was that far back.
Hugh
I have the same problem as others in the Group and I can’t find a break down diagram (Google failed me) for the machine nor can I find the piston. Each cycle leaves about 3 gallons of yucky water in the machine.
My problem is very similar to Steve Chesnut’s. I have removed everything that I could find inside the unit (one exception) and I haven’t found the piston and nut that Drags1998 described.
Okay, the exception – there is a plastic screen at the rear of the unit that goes all the way across the machine. It is held by two screws in the corners (no problem) and two in the center (forward edge of the screen). The two in the center also hold down a bracket for the rear of the heating element; they require a 1/4" open-end wrench to remove, which I don’t have. I pried up the rear of the screen, (badly cutting up several fingers) and can’t feel any parts under it. Is the piston under that screen somewhere? If so, I’ll buy a wrench!
Any help would be much appreciated. My wife is demanding a NEW MACHINE unless I can fix this one ASAP as we’ve been washing dishes by hand for a month!
I changed the piston and nut #564, which was bad, but it still won’t drain completely. I guess the next step is to pull the unit from the counter to get to the valve, #560?
Would you expect that the electrical and drain will have to be disconnected to get the unit out far enough to get to the valve:mad:?
That all depends on your installer, try to pull it, if your lucky you’ll be able to reach the valve, 
Well, my machine still doesn’t drain and I now have a door seal that leaks. Off to buy some parts – door seals and a # 560 valve; cheers.
kenn
Hi Steve,
I would definitely remove the inner door panel and check the wires.
Gene.
It does drain. I can see the water flowing into the garbage disposal when I apply 120V directly to the drain motor. That’s how I drain it at the end of it’s cycle until I can find the problem. It just doesn’t drain on it’s own.
Here is the link to your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=209847
Here is a link which may help
http://www.applianceaid.com/ge-dish.html
Guessing has cost you a fair chunk of change so I would recommend you purchase a multimeter. Have not noticed any comments about a meter reading in your posts so am assuming you do not have one. You can get a decent multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
You could then attach the leads across your pump motor to confirm that it is not getting voltage when it should.
If there is no volts you can then use it in ohms to check the wires.
Often you will not be able to tell if a wire is broken just by looking at it.
Only things to remember when using ohms is to unplug the unit from power so you do not blow the meter and always unplug one side of any device you are measuring to ensure you are not reading an alternate/parallel circuit path. There is a good sticky about meter usage at the top of this section.
Am not sure if your unit has the flapper valve solenoid (on the pump, front left hand side). If it does I am pretty sure this must pull down (opens the flapper) during the drain cycle for proper draining.
Perhaps Gene or another contributor could confirm this.
Thanks Denman, yes I have a mutimeter, that’s the first thing I did, check if current was getting to the motor. It isn’t, that’s why I made up a jumper from an old extension cord and went right from the wall outlet (120V) straight to the motor. It works fine, pumps the water out real nice into the disposal. That’s the problem, no current to the motor. Like you suggested, I think I’ll go back in and ohm out the wiring from the drain motor back to the controller and/or sequence switch. There has to be an open there somewhere, intermittent maybe? That’s why I was wondering if anyone had (or could tell me ) a schematic to see if there is anything else in between the motor and controller. I believe though, that when the washer runs, it pumps the water out normally after the wash and rinse, just not on the final phase after it’s complete. Doesn’t it pump water out several times during the whole cycle?
Yes it does pump out during a cycle. Even on a light load setting it will wash,empty,rinse then empty again. On pot scrubber it does this a couple times.
You will have to open it up when it does this to check it.
It could fill, then wash, then instead of draining it may fill again till it fills up to the point where the float switch trips, shuts off the water valve and then continues with the wash.
The unit has no way of knowing if it is full or empty, Filling and draining are simply done by time. The float shut off is usually just a safety device.
GE is a royal pain to find wiring diagrams online, I have looked and cannot find a thing. This would be a lot easier with a wiring diagram and timing chart. Though usually they tape it underneath the unit or to the back of the kick plate.
Here is a forum post I found which may help even if it does not look like the same model number
http://servicetechhelp.com/discus/messages/2801/6398.html?1197507935
It was the lid switch bypassed it…problem solved. Thanks!
Great, glad that worked and thanks for updating us.
I’ve got pretty much the same problem (same model and everything), except mine only stops on Super Size loads (medium and small complete every time). Would this still be the lid switch or should I check something else?
Could you please start a new thread and list your model number, brand a good description of the problem. This will allow other people to view your post and the resolution of your problem.
It sounds like what you are saying is that if you set your water level to super size load the machine will stop after the agitation, but that this does not happen at other load/waer level settings? If that is the case that is very unusual, so let us know exactly what is happening. If you lift the lid and put it back down does it start up? If you manually advance the timer a notich will it continue?
Thanks
You need to order the piston and nut valve which is located under the screen in the back of the tub. Remove the screen by taking out the two screws the piston and nut is located just under the screen. twist the part out and check the check valve seat it probably is deteriated. replace the part. Should solve your problems