Disposal won't let dishwasher drain

Garbage Disposer Repair
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1

I don’t actually know how old the disposal is, since we just moved into our new home.

I’m pretty sure that it’s the disposal that’s causing the problem. I’ve tried everything else (including two different dishwashers).

We moved in two weeks ago. The first time I ran Dishwasher #1 (Jenn-Air, DW760W), I found standing water in the bottom of the tub when the cycle was complete. I ran through all the normal checks (solenoid/pump working, no kinks/clogs in the drain line, no clogs in the internal workings). I ran the DW on the rinse and hold cycle and on the rinse cycle with the drain hose unhooked from the dishwasher and it drained perfectly.

When I plugged everything back in, I ended up with standing water in the tub again. I thought maybe there was something wrong with the Wash cycle; the only cycle I hadn’t tested. I decided that getting a new dishwasher was the solution.

My cousin recently remodeled his kitchen and had a spare dishwasher sitting around. I took it over to our new place and plugged it in. Enter Dishwasher #2 (GE, GSD5500G00CC). Excited that I could now wash all of our dishes after the move, I ran a cycle. I opened it up to find standing water in the basin. :frowning:

As I was typing up a post to this forum under "dishwasher repair" it occurred to me that I should see if it Dishwasher #2 drained when not plugged into the disposal, which was the only piece I couldn’t check because the drain-hose hookup is blocked from visibility by the sink basin. I took a picture with my phone and it didn’t look like there was anything blocking the drain input in the disposal, but I couldn’t be sure.

In any case, I pulled the drain hose, set it up to drain straight into the sink, and ran a full cycle in Dishwasher #2. Viola, a fully-drained dishwasher.

So now I’m trying to figure out why/how the disposal is blocking the draining of the dishwasher (either of them). I took a second picture of the drain hose hookup and it doesn’t look like there’s a plug in it (which I know can be a problem). The disposal runs when I flip its switch, and seems to grind up what little food we’ve put down it (I try not to use my disposal very often).

I’ve attached a picture of the drain-hose hookup. I’m not sure if the silver circle in the middle is normal, or what.

Help? :confused:

3

Looks to me like the plug in the disposal is still there.

Here is an install sheet for this type of unit.
https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%20W10296116.pdf

4

I had the same problem. The dishwasher would run, and at the end of the cycle there was water still inside the machine. I’m not an appliance expert, but I just went through some troubleshooting.

I would take your hoses off and blow through each end to see if there is blockage or not. In my case I took the hose off, and although it looked like it wasn’t obstructed, when I blew through it, no air would escape the other end.

The clog was white in color and tough. This stuff builds up over time, almost like someone’s artery, and once clogged, your best bet is to throw it out, and get a new hose. Its a cheap solution, and is usually the cause. 30,000 ppl watched my video on dishwasher repair, and a lot of them reported the same issue and solution. My "how to" video on dishwasher repair may help. I used someone else’s video when I approached this issue, and the videos helped… Here it is. Goodluck!:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7uaA2NZKl0

Believe it or not, its not usually food clogging it up, but rather the soaps. Is your machine older than 2 yrs?

5

[SIZE="3"]MkBrennanMD[/SIZE]

I know you are proud of your video and I did watch it and it is pretty good but this is getting a bit much.
It is obvious that the problem here was that the person did not knock out the drain input plug on the garbage disposal.

I my opinion you seem to be flooding the forum with replies that often do not address the poster’s problem/symptoms.

A plugged drain tube is not that common usually if a person is using a cycle that heats the water the grease etc. stays in solution. You may have had a sharp kink in the hose that caused your problem. It is much more common for clogs to occur where the drain attaches to the house plumbing. Or if the unit uses a back flow flapper valve at that point. There are many other causes of no draining depending on the make and model.

I do not want to insult you as I know you are just trying to help.
But please stop just adding your post to anything that even mentions a drain problem.

thank you
denman

6

I have a ge side by side and fridge is warm and freezer is cold,we have cleaned and blown dirt out cleaned lines and we took back panel off freezer and frost build up everywhere,so we got the frost off and it worked fine for 2 weeks and now it is warm again,please help…:confused:

7

Your model number is incomplete so you will have to choose one from the Matching Model Numbers section.

When you say " frost build up everywhere" I am assuming the evaporator coils were clogged solid with ice/frost.
This points towards a defrost problem.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over then it is a defrost problem.
Do not let them de-ice.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam (Item 257 in Section 03) till the fans and compressor turn off.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without taking anything apart.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it’s rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 250 in Section 02) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 240 in Section 02) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

8

right model tfx20jrxaww
I got the defrost timer now I have to get to the heater,it is back where the coils are?? right?? and if it is running and hot it will be the defrost timer correct?? ty

9

I got the defrost timer now I have to get to the heater,it is back where the coils are?? right??
Yes in the freezer.

and if it is running and hot it will be the defrost timer correct??
Yes
As long as the defrost thermostat is frozen.