I have a 2 yr. old Roper Dryer, MOD - RED4440VQ1…and it won’t start. I am an electrician by trade, and have done continuity tests and voltage tests all over the dryer. All the fuses have continuity, and everything tests ok everywhere else…except on the temp selector. The schematic shows 2 violet wires, and 2 LBu wires going to the temp selector. Shouldn’t I be getting continuity between the V and LBu wires if the temp selector is good? The timer dial seems to be correct with the Ohm Meter…except there is no continuity on ANY timer mode between the LBU and Bk wires…and the Bk wire is what energizes the Motor. The motor never gets power, and I’m fairly certain the LBu wire to the temp selector isn’t getting power to the timer swithch…as well as the motor. I wanted to be certain before I started ordering parts. Is there anyone who can help…or that I can call while troubleshooting with my multimeter…and walk me through the testing to isolate/diagnose the exact "culprit" preventing my motor from energizing.
Hi,
Your making it to complicated. 
If a electric dryer is dead the first thing I do is open the door and check the door switch. Just push the switch in and out with your finger to see if it clicks.
If it’s busted you will be able to tell as it won’t click when you push it.
Next I check to make sure the dryer has 220-240Vac were the cord connects to the dryer. I aways do the voltage check at the dryer were the power cord connects because sometimes that connection comes loose and burns up the end on the cord. If you check at the outlet for voltage you will miss such a problem.
If the door switch is ok and voltage to the dryer is ok the most common problem I see is a bad thermal fuse. This is located on the back of the dryer and looks like this on your model.
Simply check it for continuity with a multimeter like you would any other fuse.
If by chance all the above is ok I would suspect the timer, but the most common thing with a dead electric dryer is a bad thermal fuse.
If the fuse is bad replace it and clean out the blower house and duct work so it’s lint free.
Let me know what you find.
Done that. Everything checks there. Not any switch, or fuse. Timer tests okay too. With lead on L1 : timer C - 0 ohms. timer b - 0 ohms. thermal fuse (both sides) - 0 ohms. W-R side of Push to Start - couple ohms. Bk side of P to Start - infinate/ then push - couple ohms. COM side of door switch - couple ohms. Neutral on line cord - couple ohms when start sw. pushed. 
Looking at you circuit continuity test the unit should start.
You checked for the 240 but did you check for the 120 volts on L1 to Neutral.
To complete the dryer test, measure L1 to Neutral at the line cord plug.
It should give you the couple ohms when start is pushed.
If OK then check the voltages again at the terminal strip.
Then monitor the L! Neutral and start the unit.
Sometimes you can get continuity but the voltage drops out as soon as it tries to pull a higher current.
From your first post
Shouldn’t I be getting continuity between the V and LBu wires if the temp selector is good?
Yes you should but depends on what meter scale you are using.
It has to be higher than 10,000 ohms as the thermostat heater is 8,400 ohms. In any case this should not effect the motor starting.
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The timer dial seems to be correct with the Ohm Meter…except there is no continuity on ANY timer mode between the LBU and Bk wires[/COLOR]
Your second post seems to contradict this,
With lead on L1 : timer C - 0 ohms. timer b - 0 ohms. (LBU)
So I am confused.