Yes, its yet another GE refrigerator with the freezer evaporator coils frosted solid. [MODEL]GSS25LGPACC[/MODEL] is the model. To date I have replaced the defrost heater (it did check ok at 21.7 ohms but was very black so replaced it) and the defrost thermostat. Did not fix the problem.
Is my next step to test/replace the motherboard? Or should I perhaps replace one or both thermisters in the freezer compartment first and see if that solves the problem? One thermister is hard wired to the evaporator fan motor and taped to the top of the evap. coil and the other is in the right side freezer wall behind a grille. Evaporator fan seems to run fine. Obviously I don’t want to just throw parts at it and hope…
If you recommend testing/replacing the motherboard, and I know this is redundant, could you explain EXACTLY which 2 pins I need to put a jumper wire on and what my digital multimeter should read if board is good and what it would read if bad. If you could include a photo of the board off the APP parts diagram with pin location circled that would be GREAT but not necessary if its a hassle. Want to be CERTAIN it is bad before I buy that expensive part.
Finally, I recall I read somewhere that if you have to replace the motherboard you should also replace the evaporator fan motor (which seems fine) and all thermisters (which appear visually ok) at the same time…Is all or part of that statement correct?
Am I missing anything or on the wrong track? Could it be anything else?
I just bought a mother board. The people at Appliance Depot said they go out all the time on these GEs. They say they keep at least 20 on hand at all times. For $16 dollars extra though they will give a lifetime guarantee.
They wanted $155 but they gave me a price match to a website I found at $127.40.
I havent installed the mother board yet. So I am not sure this will fix it. It is not a returnable part either after you plug it in.
Unlike you my freezer is not frosting up. Just intermittent cooling problems in fridge and freezer.
I teseted all my thermisters and they all read the correct resistance.
I have done everything short of compressor, freon cgharge, and morther board.
Hopefully when I crack that seal on the $127 part f ixes this thing.
yeah I think there are a lot of us out there having problems with these GE’s–I know how ya feel. Did you know there was a recall on the motherboards a while back? I didn’t until this problem surfaced–not sure if we are covered by it or not.
Anyway, whats holding me back on just purchasing the motherboard and installing it is the same reason as you–once installed you own it–even if that doesn’t fix the problem. I’m hoping one of the forum experts will chime in with some help on testing motherboards.
Say, what site did you find the part for $127? I called our local supply outlet, they quoted me $148–I think I’ll ask about a price match too, good tip. By the way, the guy told me they have 515 boards on hand right now but says he cant keep them in stock during the summer–says they go out all the time–kinda telling isn’t it…
Agreed I am not happy with GE products at this point either. Do we really need a motherboard to run a refrigerator? The old equipment seemed pretty bulletproof IMO.
Keep me posted on whether or not your motherboard install successfully solves the problem. I’ll be checking mine for the burnt resistors you noticed. Good Luck! I hope you fixed it!
Glad to hear you solved the problem with yours–and thx for the website info. I will likely have to purchase a new board also, still need to check the evaporator fan motor first. Did you check the resistance of your thermisters at the motherboard? Can you detail how you did that if so? What are the correct values if they are good? I assume you need to check for resistance and correct voltage.
Thanks for your help on this. I ended up ordering a new motherboard, it will be here soon.
The fridge has a brand new defrost heater & thermostat already, that did not fix the evap.coil frost problem–I too am 99% sure now that its the motherboard. After this experience I will be hard pressed to ever buy a GE appliance again.
How is yours doing? running ok now? Motherboard replacement fixed the problem?
Need help:Have a older Roper 30" drop-in gas oven with a bad oven thermostat. The orginal Roper thermostat part number was 316842. My parts suppyer sent me a FSP-4329749 to replace the orginal. Thinking I got a bad FSP thermostat the frist time I replaced it with a second one. Still have the same problem.The problem is that the tempature differental is too wide. When the housewife sets a tempature to bake something, that tempature may varie as much as 40 degrees from off to on.The orginal thermostat was made by Robertshaw, and I don’t know who the FSP one was made by. The whole Drop in gas stove number is a 1560B26.Could you please give some part number guidence?ThanksG. A. Gutmann
