Had this issue 2 or 3 years ago. Repair guy thawed coils and replaced defrost heater. Now we have this issue again. I defrosted the coils with a blow dryer last night and the unit is working fine, for now.
I don’t have any electrical testing devices to test this or other parts. So, should I just replace the heater again? Heater and thermostat both? I’m also seeing post about control panel issues. That sounds like a big expense.
This refrigerator has been nothing but trouble for us. The ice dispenser always crushes ice. It leaked out of the water inlet housing/valve and ruined our floors. And the thing freezes up like this. I’ll never buy another GE refrigerator.
Go to the back of the fridg., pull off the motherboard cover, unplug fridg, and unplug the 4 pin power connector. Check pc board for pins labled line and defr. Stick a jumper between these two mating pins on the connector. Fridg should now defrost. If so, replace the motherboard and both freezer and evaporator thermisters. If no defrost, you probably have a bad defrost thermostat, or heater, just check.
Well, I thought that we had fixed the problem when replacing the bad heater. This morning it wasn’t cooling and the coils are all iced over again. Wife is thawing them out now with a blow dryer.
I bought a little electrical tester and I have continuity through the heater. What a pain in the @ss this is turning out to be.
richappy, I read your post. If the fridge is unplugged, won’t it defrost anyway?
I tried to follow Gene’s sticky post but my thermostat doesn’t have an adjustment on it. But it may be screwed up. It’s a metal cylinder with a blue plastic piece fitted in it. The blue plastic was in it crooked. When I straightened the plastic piece and pushed it into the metal some water came out. Maybe this was the issue?
My Kenmore washer is doing the beeping/flashing routine I’ve seen in other posts. Trouble is, I can’t even get a valid Error Code from it. If I hold the Start & Pause/Cancel buttons in, the five lights for the first digit flash 6 times and the light for the second digit flashes 3 times. I doubt the veracity of these results because 1) there is no Code 63 in the troubleshooting chart and; 2) valid codes are supposed to repeat after a two-second delay…this never does.
Here’s my question: Is it safe to assume that my control board is fried? I’d hate to spend $120 on an un-returnable item I didn’t need. Thanks for any insight you may have on this!
