Drier will not spin. Continuity in the start switch is good. Heater unit will not stop even with open front door.
could this be a timer switch problem?
gumpps
— Begin quote from denman;157330
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL REX5634KQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203406688.pdf
Drier will not spin. Heater unit will not stop even with open front door.
could this be a timer switch problem?
I would doubt this.
Sounds like the centrifugal switches on the motor are activated.
They are only supposed to activate (close) once the motor is rotating.
One is for the heater, it connects the heater to ensure that the heater does not come on till air from the blower is blowing across it.
The second switch disconnects the start winding as keeping it in circuit will cause the motor to overheat.
With the switches activated at rest the heater can be on and the motor cannot start as it requires the extra boost from the start winding to start.
I would check the motor sometimes it can get so clogged up with lint it jams the mechanism that activates the switches.
— End quote
Well, I ordered from this company and installed a new motor assembly and still will not run, now what do I do?
What was the original problem?
Was it the same re: the motor will not start and the timer is on all the time?
Could the motor be wired incorrectly? the only time ive ever seen the heater stay on with door open or with unit off is when the heater is shorted to the frame
— Begin quote from denman;157367
What was the original problem?
Was it the same re: the motor will not start and the timer is on all the time?
— End quote
After a new motor assembly was installed, the problem continued:
When you turn on the timer/selector the heater comes on but no turning of the drum. The heater turns off only on the OFF setting or the "No heat/fluff" setting . Could this be the selector shorting inside?
gumpps
OK lets recap.
Original problem was no motor and the heat on all the time.
The only component I could see causing this is the motor.
The switches both being activated when they should not be.
You replaced the motor so they should now be OK, if they ever had a problem.
It sounds like a grounded element for the heater.
Unplug the unit
Remove both wires from the heater and measure it, should be around 10 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the case, both should be infinite ohms (open).
You may even be able to see the problem as the symptoms suggest to me that the heater broke and then one side of it touched and welded itself to the case.
Lets try to resolve the heater problem first because it looks to me that you have 2 problems with separate causes.
I cannot see the selector switch doing this as it would have to short out contacts in a very weird way.
— Begin quote from denman;158679
OK lets recap.
Original problem was no motor and the heat on all the time.
The only component I could see causing this is the motor.
The switches both being activated when they should not be.
You replaced the motor so they should now be OK, if they ever had a problem.
It sounds like a grounded element for the heater.
Unplug the unit
Remove both wires from the heater and measure it, should be around 10 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the case, both should be infinite ohms (open).
You may even be able to see the problem as the symptoms suggest to me that the heater broke and then one side of it touched and welded itself to the case.
Lets try to resolve the heater problem first because it looks to me that you have 2 problems with separate causes.
I cannot see the selector switch doing this as it would have to short out contacts in a very weird way.
— End quote
Denman,
performed check: heater shows 9.7 ohms between terminals. Wires to ground show open, any suggestions?
gumpps
Ok , the heater looks good.
Qtip may be correct that the motor is wired incorrectly.
If you look at the wiring diagram you will see that the heater circuit is in-line with a centrifugal switch on the motor. This switch closes when the motor gets close to it’s operating speed, this prevents the heat coming on before you have air flow.
Your heater is coming on and the motor is not and your heater is not grounded so there has to be something weird going on with this switch.
Here is a good link with troubleshooting help
http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html
Check out # 13 and 14.