About a week ago, my dryer continued to spin when I opened the door. Now, the dryer won’t turn on at all. Can you please assist me in trying to diagnose the problem. THX.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=LER6611LQ0
Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203979703.pdf
Sounds like the door switch has failed.
Remove it and check it with a meter.
Remember to mark where the wires go.
Only other possibility I can think of is that you had a short on one of the wires to the frame/case and that has now burned up opening the connection.
I changed the door switch and the fuse. Still won’t work.
Did you check the old switch and fuse with a meter.
A meter will come in handy in trying to figure this one out.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
The dryer will work after changing switch and fuse. However, the outlet seems to be bad. Thanks for your assistance.