Dryer not heating

Dryer Repair
,
1

I have a Frigidaire Gas Dryer Model fsg447ghs0

My dryer tripped the circuit breaker. I flipped it back but it has stopped heating and does not dry my clothes. The dryer turns but but there is no heat.

It spins just fine but clothes don’t dry and are not hot.

I checked continuity on ignitor, sensor, safety thermostat. All were closed. On the heat control thermostat I got continuity betwen the two wide pins (left and right). But there are also two close pins (up and down) where I did not get continuity. Should I have?

Any suggestions on how to fix and what part(s) I should order?

Thanks!

3

I have checked the following parts:

  1. The igniter (#74 on the burner break down diagram)
  2. The flame sensor (#79 on the burner break down diagram)
  3. The safety thermostat (#33 on the cabinet break down diagram)
  4. The heat control thermostat (#15 on the motor break down diagram)

Which parts are the temperature switch circuits and timer heat circuit contacts on the diagrams and how do I check them for proper circuitry?

I am not sure what I should check. Sorry, I am not that familiar with Dryers.

Thanks!

4

— Begin quote from gbanks;511396

I have checked the following parts:

  1. The igniter (#74 on the burner break down diagram)
  2. The flame sensor (#79 on the burner break down diagram)
  3. The safety thermostat (#33 on the cabinet break down diagram)
  4. The heat control thermostat (#15 on the motor break down diagram)

Which parts are the temperature switch circuits and timer heat circuit contacts on the diagrams and how do I check them for proper circuitry?

I am not sure what I should check. Sorry, I am not that familiar with Dryers.

Thanks!

— End quote

Gbanks,

Thanks for the information,

To check the timer (part#1)

[part]AP2107842[/part]

and the temperature selector Swich (part #15)

[part]AP3885581[/part]

in the control panel parts diagram.

At the timer, with the power off and the dial set in the "timed dry" setting
Remove the wires from terminals A and B and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals.
Remove the wires from terminals B and C and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals.
If you get closed circuits on both tests, the timer is OK.

At the temperature switch, with the setting on high heat, remove the wires and test for a closed circuit from terminals 1 and 2.
On medium heat remove the wires from terminals 4 and 5.
On low heat, remove the wires and check across terminals 4 and 3 .
If all the circuits are closed, the temperature switch is OK, as well.

Any open circuits would indicate a damaged switch or timer. The thermostat bias heater should have a resistance range of 20 to 30 thousand ohms, if you need or want to recheck the resistance.

If all the checks are OK, we’ll need to move on from there.

Good Luck,
:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile: