I have a peculiar problem with my Frigidaire dryer that I have not encountered before. When I try to start the dryer with heat selected (any of the settings from High to Low), the dryer starts but then immediately stops. However, if I select air dry (i.e. no heat), the dryer runs fine (but of course doesn’t heat). I’ve had coils go out on me in other dryers before, but in those cases the dryers still ran even when heat was selected, so I suspect it is not the coils but a problem with a limit switch or thermostat, but am not really sure. Any thoughts as to the most likely culprit?
I did notice right before this happened that the dryer seemed hotter than usual. There aren’t any obstructions in the exhaust that I can find.
You are right it is weird.
Try to run the diagnostics or read an error code.
I doubt it would be a thermostat, but that would apply to a unit with a timer and this uses a control board so you never know what they are doing as they do not publish schematics for the boards.
I do not know what they are using the black wire that connects to J2-3 on the control board for.
Perhaps it is some type of sense input.
Same goes for the J2-1 connection.
So I would check that the hi-limit is OK and that the element is around 12 ohms and is not grounded.
I will check the diagonstics, but unfortunately, the dryer is at our 2nd home and I won’t go there for another 2-3 weeks, so I can’t check it until then. We did have the control board replaced on the unit last summer, but it’s been run many times since then without incident.
What are the chances that it might be the thermal limiter? I may go ahead and order that part and replace it to see if that fixes it (it’s not too expensive). I will also check the coils to make sure they are not grounded.
By doing a resistance check you are checking the thermistor.
I am assuming that you shorted your meter leads together before measuring just to be sure that the meter is working.
The wiring diagram shows it as 50,000 ohms (probably at room temperature) so your meter must be set to a range that is higher than this, usually 200K on a digital meter.
If it shows open then it is toast.
Try running then diagnostics in the tech sheet to see if an error pops up.
If not then probably your control board is toast.
thanks for all the information. I have found the problem. Its the main power supply on the back of the circuit board. I’m going to check on just replacing the power supply first its only $2.60. e bay has whole board from $120 to $150.