hello i have the roper by whirlpool. the dryer will turn and blow air but its cold air. the timer dile will not count down either. i took off the heating element and its intact. do you think its the thermostat element?
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=rex6634pq0
Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208528187.pdf
First I would check the breaker/fuses. Turn the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Often you can loose half the line voltage without actually tripping the breaker. Depending which side drops out the units motor will run but you get no heat or timer advance in either timed or auto modes. Both the heater and the timer require 240 volts. If the timer advances on timed dry then your 240 is probably OK and the heater is probably open.
On Auto modes the timer gets power through the heater coil when it is turned Off by the thermostat.
so what do you guys recomend? old lady nagging me to get it fixed.
should i just buy a new dryer?
Cannot answer this, it is up to you. The dryer is relatively new, if you feel uncomfortable messing with it, you may want to place a service call but it should not be a difficult fix and you will save yourself at least $50.00 to $100.00.
what would you guys suggest the most common things to go out on these?
Most common would be the thermal fuse in the heater circuit (look at the wiring diagram)
Here again is the link to your parts, just so it is handy.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=rex6634pq0
Take a look at in the "Bulkhead Parts" section Item 6. You will see that it is a fuse and a high temp thermostat. They come as a set. The fuse can be checked without a meter.
Unplug the machine
Remove the two wires from the thermal fuse and short them together
Tape them up so they cannot short to anything.
Plug the unit back in and give it a try.
If it now runs order the parts.
Replace the fuse and high limit thermostat ASAP as they are safety devices.
Make sure you have the unit unplugged when working on it. It is 240 volts which is very dangerous.
If it is the fuse that is blown, clean and check your vent system. A dirty/clogged vent or vent louvers which do not open properly are a common cause of this fuse blowing. Also make sure your lint filter is clean.
If you use liquid fabric softener it can coat the screen drastically reducing air flow. If this is the case clean it with soap and water. Let it dry good before reinstalling.
Yes as long as the wire you used made good connection to both plugs.
Or if the receptacles ion the ends of the wire are bare metal just tape them together.
Also double check that it was the thermal fuse you shorted and not the operating thermostat which has the same color wires going to it. The thermal fuse should be marked 309 or 325 degrees or something like that.
theyve got plastic covering them. but the wire should have made good connection. this was number six the one on top. should i try it with the one on the bottom
DRY WILL START RUN 2-3 SECOND THAN STOP. PUSH START BUTTON FEELS FUNNY AFTER SHUT OFF. THERE SEEMS TO BE A ELECTRICAL BURNING SMELL AT THIS TIME. JUMPED THE WHITE FUSE AT THE EXHAUST NO CHANGE, HEATED SENSOR BY EXHAUST IT CLICKED, NO CHANGE, PUSH START SWITCH HAS OMHS. TIMER TICKS BUT DOES NOT BUZZ.
DRY WAS DIRTY IN SIDE AND WE CLEANED IT OUT BUT NO CHANGE.:rolleyes: 
One of my dual element burners on my glass stove top is only working on the outer element. I looked at the part and it looks like if one or both quite working you have to replace the whole thing. Just pull out and push in the new one, but how do I open up the top glass?