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[SIZE=3]Part 1: I have a 2003 GE PSH23NGPABB side by side. The control panel 3lb. onthe express thaw is lit and I cycle through the selections till it turns off. Iclose the door and open it again and the 3lb. is lit again. What’s the deal? [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]Part 2: The freezerworks fine when it’s cool out but as soon as the temp goes to 90 and above. Thecontrol panel reads 18 freezer and 35 fridge. I get high readings and thingsstart to thaw (Meat, ice cream, etc). Defroster is working, no ice buildup, changedall three thermistors ( evap, freezer, fresh food), the fans are working. Needhelp
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Try to reset the control by: push and hold Freezer Warmer, Food Colder and Express Thaw buttons simultaneously. The thaw light should blink and go out. Unplug the refrigerator for 20 seconds.
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Did you clean the condenser coils on the back of the fridge?
Gene.
#1 I did what you said, pushed the buttons. The 5lb lite came on then the 3lb. blinked and both stayed on, the thaw fan came on and I unpluged it for 20 sec… I pluged it back in and the express thaw was on for 4hrs… I cycled through, it turned off. I closed the door and the light stayed off. It went down different but the results were the same.
thanks
#2 I clean them yearly but I got this late and will check tomorrow.
Everthing worked fine on the testing, fans, dampners, communication (board to control), thermistors and reset. The temp is still high 20 and 44. I cleaned the coils, they weren’t bad to begin with. Whats left?
Remove the rear panel inside the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with frost. Post the results.
Gene.
Like I said in the opening question the coils were lightly frosted. This time the bottom part of the coils were frosted. I replaced the thermista and the defrost sensor last summer. I did a defrost test and the heater came on and defrosted the coils. I reset it and put every thing back. I did all the tests again and they passed. I put it into a pre-chill mode which will return to normal on its own. What is pre-chill mode? and what do I do now???
Well this is the next day and instead of cooling the temps went up to 37/60 outside temp is 85 deg. whats going on???
The warm temperature in the fresh food compartment caused by the warm temperature in the freezer. If the condenser and the evaporator fans are running as well as the compressor, and there is normal air flow within the freezer, then there is something wrong with the sealed system.
The pressure inside the sealed system as well as the compressor performance should be checked by a certified tech.
Gene.
Any recommendations in my area, long island new York
You can try this [B]website[/B].
Gene.
what type of freon is in that system
Most likely it is R134a. Check out the name plate.
Gene.
what is the psi with the compressor running. Is that a multi speed compressor ?
How are you going to check it if there are no service ports?
Gene.
I installed a BPV (Bullet Percing Valve for r134a) on the low pressure side. (which I picked up @ Grainger ( part # 6X898 for $3.75, as apposed to a refrigeration supply store.) Having read through several forums I am getting conflicting answers. One said the pressure is best between 25 & 45 psi. The other one said 5 to 8 psi, being a lowpressure system. Having checked the pressure with the compressor off thepressure was 33 psi. Once I cycled the compressor it went down to 5psi with a slight fluctuations. Which led me to believe it might be a multi speed compressor. Thus the question; what is the correct pressure reading for my product.
5psi is not bad. Can you explain more specific what did you mean "slight fluctuations"?
Gene.
up and down a psi or 2. 5to8 /5to 3
I still believe you need a pro to look at it.
Gene.
[SIZE=3]Gene;[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] Checked the pressure and charged itseems to be fine. 43 when compressor is off and 5 when it is on. Three dayslater and the fridge is @ 37 and the freezer @ 10 can’t seem to get lower. Once you open either door is open the temp goes up and it takes a long time to recover. I did the fan test and I can hear all the fans come on. When the door is open for a period of time the freezer fan comes on automatically. It’s not a powerful fan. When I remove the lights I can touch the fan and it stops easily. I heard a guy used a computer fan and hasn’t had a problem since. In the mean time, from doing the defrost test the defrost limiter blew. I replaced it and found out that the one All-teck sold me last year was the wrong it was a L60 and the one it calls for is an L 140. So at least the is corrected. So what do you think ismy next step??? Is that a multi speed fan? I seem to remember a loop test on the mother board to check the different speeds. Maybe It’s not moving enough cfm’s remind me if I am right. what do you think?[/SIZE]
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— Begin quote from Rockmeal;753858
1. …[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]When I remove the lights I can touch the fan and it stops easily…
2. …I replaced it and found outthat the one All-teck sold me last year was the wrong it was a L60 and the oneit calls for is an L 140. So at least the is corrected… [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][SIZE=3][/SIZE]
— End quote
1. This is definitely not good. This is DC fan motor which operates by the main control board and has a variable speed. You can learn more about such motors from one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/476782-replacing-ge-refrigerator-evaporator-motors-motherboards.html
I would suggest to replace it together with the main control board. That motor can be the main cause of the problems with your fridge.
Before you’ll order the motor you have to determine if the thermistor is wired into the connecting harness or not.
2. This thermostat is not a defrost thermostat which controls defrost temperature in most refrigerators. This thermostat is actually overtemperature thermostat which protects the freezer liner from overheating. That’s why it opens at 140°F. Defrost temperature in your fridge controls by the defrost thermistor which is located on top of the evaporator coils and the main control board.
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The fan motor with thermistor wired into the connecting harness WR60X10074
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The fan motor without thermistor WR60X10185
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The main control board WR49X10152
Gene.
P.S. Be careful when you are searching different forums. Your refrigerator is not like most of other GE refrigerators because it has dual evaporators and variable speed compressor.