Like many folks/posts I’ve seen, I too have now begun to experience issues with the temperature within the fridge. Freezer, ice maker, dispenser are all working fine. Course I can find EVERY other owners manual I have…but the one for the fridge! Can’t seem to find this model number anywhere when searching for it. It’s a side by side model…
Started with unplugging (waiting a minute) then replugging the refrigerator. Does not seem to have fixed the issue after a couple days. Then removed the covers in the fridge to the coil, and found a bit of ice built up around the hoses which lead into the freezer compartment. Melted that with a hair dryer, along with the frost on the coils in the fridge. There was some frost on the coils, but it did not appear to be excessive.
Saw posts about the door switch having issues so I pushed it in to see if either of the fans run. Nope. cannot hear/see any of the (2) fans in the fridge run. Replaced everything and then noticed my NON-LCD display not working (ARGGG). Went to remove the panel at the top of the fridge to double check connections, etc. when I loosened the top right screw just a little, the display came back on (I should probably remove the panel to see if any of these wires were damaged when the screw was originally installed).
Bought it just over a year ago, and it has been working just fine up to this point. I do have kids and my younger one seems to like to leave the door open and stare into the fridge like something is going to magically appear…
Saw posts about evaporator fans, condensers, motherboards, etc.
Saw also that the m/b was upgraded/revised so I thought about just going ahead and buying one to replace the existing…but figured I"d better post my scenario so I don’t just start throwing $$$ at it and replacing ad-hoc parts. I do have volt/ohm meter so if I get some direction I could certainly test whatever is recommended that I test.
Any feedback/direction would be greatly appreciated!
Cool. I can’t seem to find an image for this part anywhere, so I’m not exactly sure what it consists of, and how to replace it. Is there any way to get a picture and replacement steps?
Go to www.geappliances.com scroll down to enter appliance model# and you will be able to view a breakdown of your fridge. Once you find the breakdown it is item# 816 in the freshfood section…It is very easy to replace this, remove the lower drawers, locate the 3 screws that hold the assy. 2 on top 1 on the left side, disconnect the wires, and put the new one in.
Checked both fans behind this cover last night. The little side-mounted fan tested fine with a 9v battery with 12+volts…the larger 3.5" fan in the center wouldn’t turn.
Tracked down a similar sized fan (4" 12vdc/85cfm fan from Radio Shack $20), mounted it in place of the OEM fan, put the assembly back together and…
VOILA!!!
This morning my fridge is at 35degrees! WOO HOO.
Couldn’t see spending the $112 on the whole assembly for a fan. Figured I’m now going to search to see if I can find that exact fan assembly somewhere and pick up one or two. I figure the cost of the fan should really only be about $5-$10. Then I’ll take back the overpriced fan to R/S!
I am a GE appliance tech, and the reason I gave you the part# for the whole assembly is that we don’t have the fan by itself, kinda crazy I know, glad you could get it fixed
I have the same problem, with a PSC25PSTASS. We actually got the part replaced about 6-9 months ago, and it’s broken again in the same way. Clearly there’s a design flaw, which is a bit worrying when the part costs $170 and fails every 6-12 months.
The original fan is about 4" x 4.7", whereas this Radio Shack one looks square. I’m concerned it won’t be as effective or won’t fit. If it is the right one, how did you wire it in and make it fit into the foam slot?
We had the same problem for 3 weeks now, FRIDGE is 47 degree, but ice built up on the inside wall around the fan(or the cover evap asm). First a technician came and replaced the Mainboard, that did not help. last week ordered 2 parts WR23X10175(switch light), WR17X11915(cover evap asm). Received it last Friday, waiting on someone to put it back on.
Now, the water dispenser quit working, when I pressed on it, could hear the water sound but no water came out and found water on the floor instead! It was working fine earlier this morning. We had the water leaking problem before, 3 times to be exact, the water lines on the bottom poped out, we pushed them back and it worked fine.
Is this related to my warm fridge problem? Is the ‘cover evap asm’ a victim or the cause of all this?
My fridge also had ice around the evap cover in the lower left corner. I had to get a hairdrier to melt it last time, but used a hammer this time. It seems bad that there is such a large ice build up, and I wonder if moisture or ice is causing the fan to break. Basically I wonder if there is a root cause, and fan failure is just the symptom?
So you got a new evap assembly (big white piece with fan in the back of it) and also some new extra piece that keeps the ice from forming? Can you describe the second piece please? I can’t find a picture or any details about whether it’s possible for me to install on my own.
:rolleyes: I have an 18 month old GE PSF26PGTA WW unit which just lost its condenser fan. It surely looks like GE has a design problem here. After finding out about having to buy the entire $160.00 module to get the $10.00 fan:eek: , I also went to Radio Shack and bought their 4 inch fan.
It took some trimming of the styrofoam since it is larger, but it is in place and working. I also used air conditioning aluminum duct tape to seal the air gaps around the fan. The next time, I will probably order a computer fan from newegg.com since they are thinner and cost less.
Hopefully someone will come up with a direct replacement fan for these units before long.
My Jenn-Air stove is having problems with the control panel. The only button that doesn’t work is the up arrow. The rest of the control panel works fine. I am assuming that this was the first button to go since I use the up arrow the most. Does the whole control panel need to be replaced, or is there something that can be done to fix the up arrow? I cannot use the timer and can only bake up to 350 degrees w/out the up arrow.
I would really like to avoid having to pay around $400 for a new control panel and the labor to repair it.
Can smell gas after oven is off . Took oven apart and found small amount of gas leaking from gas orific ! This is the 2nd gas valve in 5yr, aprox. stove is LP and has 2 regulaters on tank line and the one on the stove that has a lever shut off that has to be used to keep from leaking ! It works OK when on but dosnt shut compleatly off ! Another Gas valve?? This is geting costly !!
If the gas is indeed leaking out from the orifice, then that is after the valve and I would guess the valve to be the problem. Gas leaks can be a hard thing to pinpoint, especially in an enclosed area without the help of something besides your nose to do the searching. But if you have found the exit point, sounds like you already know how to replace the part.
Due to electronic controls in the washer unstable voltage can cause many different problems and/or damages to the electronic parts. It is a good idea to use a surge suppressor/diverter to protect your washer. If the washer is less than a year old then you have to call GE for the warranty service to find out if the washer is broken.
I have the GE Profile psf26pgta, I bought it in Dec 2007 and noticed right away that the frig did not cool, but the freezer was fine, we did notice ice building up in the left lower corner. We had the tech come out and he installed the modification kit. The refrig had been working fine since then. In Feb 2009, I placed the refrig in storage when I deployed and was planning a move. Well the move is done and the refrig is plugged in and we are back to the frig side not cooling. It is set at 37 deg but a seprate thermometer says its about 44 degs. I pressed the door switch and I can hear the fan kick on, also I turned on the Express Chill for 45 mins and the front fan works also. So what now?
I read your response earlier how to remove and replace it. My above ge frig shows only two screws and on the side is foam sealing behind plastic covers. Will just removing two screws come off, what am I missing. I also need to replace temperature sensor ff that is on the side, can I splice a new one.
