Our frig stopped getting cold all of a sudden (both fridg and freezer). This is a french style frig.
The fan opposite the condenser is moving, but like a snail and not at the speed it should be. I gather its just the thermostat?
Any good online places to buy also?
— Begin quote from crmichaels;759679
…The fan opposite the condenser is moving, but like a snail and not at the speed it should be…
— End quote
You already found the problem. This fan motor has to be replaced together with the main control board.
The condenser fan motor WR84X10055
The main control board WR55X10942
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5231486
Gene.
Thank you. Are you positive the main board would be part of the issue?
Yes, I am. It was recommended by GE and was proven by our experience.
Gene.
I ordered the parts today! Will post to let you know how I make out.
So I received the board and the new fan motor today. Installed everything without issue. Fan is running as it should be. However, in the instructions for the control board, it refers to the lower panel of the frig where the compressor is and that for All "bottom freezers" and those with a certain serial number set, that the green wire coming from the power cord/supply be cut. I find this odd, as it’s simply a ground. In the photo they show the green wire running from the power cord to the connector. In my frig the green also has a yellow stripe which runs to the frame of the frig as a ground, then back up to the connector and then back down to the other component next to the compressor.
End result, she’s been running for about 3 hours and there’s no cold air coming out. I set it to turbo cool and nothing. The freezer and the frig area are both still warm in the 80 degree range.
Thoughts? Something else that needs to be replaced?
Does the compressor work?
Did it work prior to the repair?
Gene.
The compressor was working. Never an issue. The frig just stopped getting cold one day (Freezer and frig area). Right now it’s blowing room temp air.
Someone locally told me the following:
[SIZE=2]I would highly discourage you from attempting to replace the comnpressor unless you are liscenced and equiped to do so. It requires special equipment including recovery equipment an braizing equipment to properly install a compressor. In addition, as I mentioned, the sealed system is likely contaminated which would neccesitate replaceing the evaportor and filter drier. You may want to investigate the cost of a replacement refrigerator. If you would like us to quote you on the job, I wouild just need your model number to do so. [/SIZE]
— Begin quote from crmichaels;761308
…[SIZE=2]I would highly discourage you from attempting to replace the comnpressor unless you are liscenced and equiped to do so. It requires special equipment including recovery equipment an braizing equipment to properly install a compressor… [/SIZE]
— End quote
This is absolutely right. But you don’t know yet if there is something wrong with the sealed system or the problem is somewhere else.
Remove the rear panel inside the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with frost. Post the result.
Gene.
The evaporator was dry as a bone and still the frig is just blowing room temp air. The compressor doesn’t seem to be cranking as it once was, but it is warm to hot.
Next item to test?
Next step is to check the pressure in the sealed system. It has to be done by a certified tech. If the refrigerator is less than 5 years old, it can be under the warranty. Check it with GE.
Gene.
Same issues as the OP in addition to a click down by the compressor. I replaced the board and now the fan is spinning normally. Based on other posts, it appears I should proceed to the overload/relay (WR08X10061?) next. How can I test the overload/relay to see if it is good?
— Begin quote from mcaulifn;790582
Same issues as the OP in addition to a click down by the compressor. I replaced the board and now the fan is spinning normally. Based on other posts, it appears I should proceed to the overload/relay (WR08X10061?) next. How can I test the overload/relay to see if it is good?
— End quote
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
What was wrong with the refrigerator?
Have you performed any troubleshooting?
Gene.
Same model number.
Issues:
[LIST]
*]Clicking noise by compressor
*]condenser fan spinning slowly
*]ice maker not working
*]and now, no cooling[/LIST]I ordered a discounted board from GE and replaced it. The fan is now spinning normally but it is not cooling at all. The clicking increased. There was a small amount of water in the ice maker after running for 3 hours.
I pulled PTC and overload/relay to test it. I have since busted the plastic on the PTC attempting to pull out the overload because it was very brittle.
I ordered both from this site. If this fixes it, the only remaining issue is the ice maker. Guess I’ll wait and see.
Thanks!
— Begin quote from mcaulifn;790645
…I ordered a discounted board from GE and replaced it…
— End quote
What did you mean?
Keep us posted.
Gene.
They found the "special program" that was giving away boards but that program ended in August. So, they sold it to me for about 40% off.
Gene - Got the parts this morning. Wow, that was fast!
Two things:
[LIST=1]
*]Didn’t realize the overload came in the PTC. I’ll need to return that.
*]The new part is layed out a bit different. Does the black wire go to the terminal labeled "N" and the blue wire to "L"?[/LIST]Thanks in advance!
— Begin quote from mcaulifn;790850
…Does the black wire go to the terminal labeled "N" and the blue wire to "L"?..
— End quote
No. Due to US AC power circuit wiring color codes the Line wire (L or L1) is always black.
Gene.
Ah, so thats what the L and N are for. Trying it out now.
Thanks!
Between the new board and the new PTC/overload, all issues have been resolved. Thanks!