Thanks for the insights richappy and denman
so I decided to take a deep dive into my fridge… being 210 pounds didn’t help much :rolleyes: !
I managed to retrieve the ADC box and I inspected the ADC board. To my surprise the thick trace leading to the relay was broken :mad: don’t ask me how it happened I was just as surprised to see that (see picture attached)
That broken trace happens to be pin 6 on the connector - the Compressor Out!
I checked position of the relay, contact 3 and 2 are short. This confirms that we are in NOT in defrost cycle so the compressor / fan should come on
I tested for continuity and relay coil impedance (5.4 K ohms) which matches the datasheet http://elcodis.com/parts/849222/G2RL-14-E-CF_DC24_p2.html). The relay is 48VDC rated and the datasheet gives out 5,358 Ω. 
a bit of explanation of what the picture and colors are for to help with the diagnosis
In the picture pin 1 is BLACK - HOT, pin 10 is BLUE I was concerned of a short now, I have to solder a wire on the bottom joining the connector pin 6 and K1 pin 2.
The green squares in the picture referring to pin 7, 9 and 11 also indicated short with pin 1. That simply means that power is getting to the applicable control
Pin 7 - fridge door is open, holding the switch confirmed light in OFF position removed the short (Check)
Pin 9 - fresh food ctl: I turned the control all the way to OFF position, this cuts off power and removes short to pin 1 (check)
Pin 11 - Evap fan: this is good sign as evap fan receives power (check)
pin 10 - this was a bit more tricky as it read 8.6 ohms, so i wasn’t sure if this is a real short or not… lookin at the diagram I could see that there is bunch of coil / lamps in the way, to verify I held the fridge lamp switch and multimeter read 342 ohms so I figured this is OK although it is small but I didn’t expect to see Open Loop
The board other wise looks healthy, i just have to jumper connector pin 6 to the relay pin 2 and hope it fixes it.
More on that soon!
-AJ