I have a GSL25JFPABS GE fridge that just stopped cooling. All other functions work except no sound from the compressor/condenser. Checked the relay - smells okay and sounds solid (no loose parts inside), and it ohms out as an expected open (as most disconnected relays do). Since both fans are okay (internal circulation and external comp) and the compressor isn’t trying to kick in or hot (freon leak/bad compressor), can I presume to try the mother/control board? If so, any suggestions on the continuity checks shown on the board? I do not have the spec sheet on what the expected readings are. Thanks.
:eek:
Check for 120VAC at connector J7-9 orange wire to TERMINAL-J8 black wire at the main control board while the fans are running. If the reading is incorrect, replace the main control board.
- The main control board AP4436216
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5209032
Gene.
Gene - thanks for the help. O VAC. Now time to save up for the $134 needed for the board, Have a back-up fridge to use in the meantime. Thanks again.
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
Hi again. Now, after checking the fridge this AM, the compressor is whining away, and I’m now reading voltage at the board, but only the freezer is getting cold. Seems the damper isn’t staying open into the fridge section. After removing the vent cover, I ‘wiggled’ the wire harness and the damper then opened on its own. Will wait to see if damper stays open long enough to cool fridge. Any connection to a possible intermittent control board problem, or simply two diff. issues (sensor/wire)? PS> house not hit by electrical disturbances (lightning, etc.) aside from the occasional power fluctuation/intermittent hits.
Damper keeps closing. Even put bunch of bottled water on top shelf near sensor (on vent) to help temp readings. Fridge still staying warm. Any thoughts?
Freezer still okay, found loose small spring in damper control cover. Sensor appears to be OK physically. Any idea if spring can prevent damper from opening as much as sensor dictates it should and where the spring actually goes on the damper?
Looks like this is a very different problem. I do not think it can be repaired but you can try. You already invested a lot of money in this refrigerator and I feel sorry about it but the only solution, in my opinion, is to replace the damper assembly.
- The damper assembly AP3186598
Gene.
Thanks for replying, Gene. No money for repairs spent yet - just time/frustration. Thought it might still be the control board, since the comp wasn’t on before. What about the temp sensor itself? And anyway to reinstall the small spring onto the damper door? It closes after ~4-5 min after I manually open it. It reopens rarely (not enough to keep the fridge temp at least ~40deg. The sensor does react to hot steam after ~1 min and opens the damper.
Well, it is very possible there is an intermittent problem with the main control board. I would replace it first and go with further diagnostic after that. Otherwise there are too many parts in question.
Gene.