My 2 year old front load washer stopped doing the high speed spin a couple of days ago. It goes through all the motions, but when it comes to the final spin/drain cycle, it will only drain.
I made sure all doors were closed, tried to wash several different loads to make sure that it wasn’t an unbalanced load or too light/heavy. Still no luck.
I found the tech data sheet inside the machine, followed the instructions, and brought up the error code E43 (control board problem/replace board). I replaced the board and it still won’t spin. New board still shows E43.
I next ran through the diagnostic test. All the functions worked including the high speed spin and door lock test. I also checked the drain boot and it wasn’t clogged.
Why does the high speed spin work in the diagnostic mode, but won’t work on any wash cycles? What’s wrong with this thing? I don’t want to manually make it spin every wash load. Please help, getting frustrated!
I don’t think I have the information on my spec sheet that you mentioned. The new control board I installed came with a note saying "Testing has shown the reed switch is not needed on front load washers. If the washer has a reed switch, disconnect it from the old board and discard." The new control board doesn’t even have the terminals to connect the reed switch. I don’t think that’s the problem.
I can’t find any sort of test connector behind the front panel, so I removed the switch. I showed an electrician the schematic for the washer, and he told me to test the gray and red wire terminals of the door switch for 1325 ohms of resistance. I think I found the one he meant, it was a red with black stripe wire. It tested at 1389 (okay I think?). I also tested the gray and black wires for voltage and found 120 volts with the machine in standby, and 0 volts during spin cycle. Is this right? I’m not sure if I’m testing the right terminals or not. Any help with exactly which wires to test would be very appreciated.
The door switch has three different connectors going to it. One has two wires, pink and red with black stripe. I believe this connects to the wax something. The next connector has four, an orange wire and three red with black stripe wires. The last connector has two, a black and a gray wire. Too many red with black, I am very confused.
I can hear the door lock when I go through the diagnostic tests and make the washer spin that way, but I don’t know if that means anything or not. Any help with which wires/terminals to test would be great.
Hi, my whirlpool shut off after 20mins( on high setting).of being ran. cooled down and ran for a couple of mins. shut down again . set the temp. setting to low and work find as if it was on high temp(normal dry time) . duck to outside clean. i see there is 3 thermostats 1.high limit 2.plain thermostat 3. dry cycling thermostat or the swicth for air,high and low.
which could it be. thanks for your time.
Somehow 3 yr old granddaughter and her mother removed the oven door. The hinge is completely closed, ie the door removal pins are NOT in place and the hinge is in the closed position in the door.
The spring tension is very strong, and I do not know how to get the hinge to the partially open position necessary to replace the door on the range. And with hinge in closed position I cannot even see the hole where one is to insert a nail or screw in lieu of door removal pin.
Is this something that can be done by owner with your guidance? Thanks
I Hear The Icemaker Clicking And Making All The Normal Sounds But I Don’t Hear The Water Filling Up Anymore. And It Has Stopped Making Ice. I Have Always Heard The Water Sound At Certain Times Of The Day When Its Filling. Its’s Been 2 Days Now And No Water Is Going In. I Emptied The Freezer And Turned The Freezer Dial To Lowest Setting And Am Waiting. Maybe It S Frozen.? Please Help Me. Recently The Water Tube Came Undone And The Service Man Fixed It. It Just Had To Be Stuck In The Clamp At The Top. No Problem Till This Now. That Was A Month Ago. Thank You C.s.
Thanks Your experience is helpful even though costly to you it gives me more information on which to make a decision. I’d rather learn by some one else’s mistakes. I called a service person to get an estimate for a visit. I told him the code i got #47 he said that often doesn’t mean anything. he said he would replace the door lock first so that is what i will try . Another person had a similar problem replaced the door lock which didn’t help and then had to replace the control board.
Thanks to those who posted the previous information, as I wouldn’t have known where to start otherwise. I found the diagnostic tests mentioned and did them, and got an error code 47 (this wasn’t showing up before, the only symptom was the washer stopped at the point the high speed spin should have started). Based on this code and what others had said, I ordered the lock assembly for about $40 delivered. In the meantime, we did the diagnostic test to manually do a high speed spin after a load of wash was done. The part arrived quickly and it was pretty straightforward to install, and that took care of it.
Thanks Your experience is helpful even though costly to you it gives me more information on which to make a decision. I’d rather learn by some one else’s mistakes. I called a service person to get an estimate for a visit. I told him the code i got #47 he said that often doesn’t mean anything. he said he would replace the door lock first so that is what i will try . Another person had a similar problem replaced the door lock which didn’t help and then had to replace the control board.
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[SIZE=3]Model #= GLTF2940ES1[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Frigidaire Gallery Series[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I have read through all the posts and got pretty far, considering I don’t know how to fix much. I ran the diagnostics and got an error 47. I pulled the lock assembly out and tested for resistance and got an 1179. I am not sure if that means it is fine or if it needs to be replaced. I also tested the control panel and got the following readings:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]J2=.5[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]J3=.455[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]J7=44.3[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]J14=273.7[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]J1=54.7[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]J4=I am not sure if this was reading correct or not. It would not give me a reading unless I put both black and red on the same prong. Then it only gave me a .2. I am not sure if it was saying OL since it didn’t appear to be reading anything.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]J6=I couldn’t pull this out to get a reading so I just left it alone.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]At this point, I don’t know what these numbers are suggesting. Please help me with getting the right part(s).[/SIZE]
what am i doing wrong? my first error code indicated door lock so i replaced it. did not fix problem. new error code said replace control board, which i did. Still no final spin. please help.
what am i doing wrong? my first error code indicated door lock so i replaced door lock. this did not fix problem. new error code said replace control board, which i did. Still no final spin.
I ran diagnostic test and it spun. Now error code says 47 indicating something with the door lock? what the heck am i doing wrong here?
please help?
Hello. We have a frigidaire front loader. It’s about ten years old.
It stop spinning. It will fill and drain but no agitate or spin
we called sears and the repairman said the motor was bad. Quoted me 390$ to fix but said it wasn’t worth fixing and to buy a new machine. I ordered a motor online and installed it tonite. Still no spin???
so obviously the repairman was wrong
i am not electrically inclined but it must be either the control board to the left of the motor or the door switch
the motor control board doesn’t look like its burned or anything
if I turn the machine on in the spin cycle, the light for “spin” comes on. If I push the knob in to pause, I can immediately open the door. It’s not locked. Does that mean that my lock switch is bad? I do not have a voltage meter so I don’t know how to check it by ohms
[SIZE=3]…I ran the diagnostics and got an error 47. I pulled the lock assembly out and tested for resistance and got an 1179.[SIZE=3].[/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=3].[/SIZE]
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I’m sorry that your question was not answered on time.
These results are enough to say that the problem is a bad door lock assembly. No more tests required.
I am having the same code E47 and no final spin cycle. I first replaced the wax motor in the door lock assembly and still no spin and same code E47. I then replaced the whole door lock assembly unit and still no spin and same code E47. Does that mean I need to replace the motor control board?
My washer was not spinning and cloths was Still soaking wet it turned out it was just the belt, it needed to be replaced, so before I spend a lot of money paying someone to check and fix it check belt.
I have a question for awhile my cloths kept smelling like mold , I was wondering if anyone else ever had this problem. I did leave door open and dry door and inside and it kept getting worse, finally I used vinegar thru the washer and bought those deodorant packets to run thru it haven’t had this problem now but I was wondering if anyone has other thoughts on what I can do or if anyone else can help. Thank u :eek:
:eek: