My ~2 year old Frigidaire front loading washer had a problem this past weekend. Near the end of a wash, a loud mechanical/electrical buzzing noise started and it would no longer spin. I think it happened before or right at the rinse cycle. Since then, I haven’t been able to get it to drain, much less rinse or spin. I haven’t checked the resistance on the motor yet, but it looked fine (I know that doesn’t tell me anything). I’ve read where it could be the control board? Any help is much appreciated.
Use this manual to generate error codes, which will come from blinking lights and see if you can get a more specific diagnosis.
http://frigidaireservicetips.com/pdfs/490_3cuftHorizontalAxisWasherSM.pdf
I got an E41 error code - The control board thinks the door switch is open. I got the diagnostic test from another forum:
ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Webster/134879500.pdf
I finally had time from work to run the diagnostic test. My findings:
1 click from start: No hot water dispensed, but sounded like a solenoid clicked.
2 clicks from start: No cold water dispensed
3 clicks from start: No cold water dispensed
4 clicks from start: The door locked (think it was already locked)
5 clicks from start: The door lock deactivated
6 clicks from start: The washer DID NOT fill, but DID tumble
7 clicks from start: The washer DID NOT fill, but did spin
8 clicks from start: The drain pump DID NOT activate, the door lock DID activate, and the washer DID NOT spin. *The washer also made the mechanical/electrical noise that I heard originally
9 clicks from start: The error code was displayed correctly.
So now I’m more confused. Water won’t dispense, or drain. Seems like the door lock mechanism is working fine. Anything else I should try?
The machines many times have problems with the door lock mechanism. If they think it is not locked the machine will not operate even if the door is locked. The problem is in determining what is wrong.
I would take off the door lock and clean and reseat all of the connections and also check of the wiring. If that does not help you may have to replace the door lock mechanism or the speed control board. Use the manual to try to check the speed control board.
Could this still be a door lock mechanism problem? I wouldn’t think the washer would spin/tumble in the diagnostic test if it thought it was not closed…
Also, is the speed control board close to the motor? I saw 2 control boards in the manual, the main (pc) board, and then the other - problem is, it doesn’t show where the "other" board is located.
Thanks for the ideas-
My understanding is that the test mode will override the door lock problem.
See pp 88-90 to remove the speed control board.
Well, I have unfortunately ordered the wrong 2 parts. I replaced both, and still have the same problem. I’m wondering if my drain pump is having a problem…It won’t fill hot or cold water during the diagnostic test and makes the same annoying sound when I get to "8 clicks", the drain pump and door lock solenoid will activate check. Now it’s not giving me an error code at all…
Any other ideas?
These machines are a real struggle because of the electronics. They make it difficult to diagnose, and sometimes impossible. I sympathize with what you are going through.
What parts did you replace? And what exactly happens when you try to operate the machine now?
Thanks for the help. I found the culprit - an underwire from my wife’s bra stuck in the drain pump.
Ok, great that you found that and glad you are back in business.
Thanks also for the update.