My glass top oven quit working after I saw a flash under the glass in the back left corner. The range burners work but the oven won’t heat up. A little of the insulation in hte back looks dark but i haven’t opened it up that far yet. I wanted a little advice before I dove into it.
Any ideas. My breaker went out also.
Dave
I’ve taken the back panel off but there wasn’t much to see back there. I’m going ot have to go deeper once I gather some info on what to look for. Like I said there was a little burnt looing yellow fiberglass insulation near where the flash happened so you’re probably on the right track hopefully a new part isn’t going to cost as much as the stove itself.
Any idea what part might have blown? I copied the model number right from the front lower panel. I couldn’t find my receipt fromt eh purchase but I figured the model number from the front would have worked.
dave
Just some info
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5154853
Unfortunately this site is not very forgiving when doing searches for Model Numbers that include spaces, dashes, dots etc.
Here is a wiring diagram
http://ftp.electrolux-na.com/PDFnotFoundCheck.asp?path=ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/&folder=Springfield&PDFtype=Wiring&PDFfile=316255315.pdf&model=FEF379ACH
To start with, identify what works and what doesn’t, that way we can isolate the problem. Try all the elements and verify they turn on and off, along with the hot surface and element on lights. Test the oven light using the switch and opening the door. Verify if the clock works and even try broil and self clean to see if anything happens. From that information, we can narrow down your search.
I’ll run through all the items to see what is working and what does not.
I finally got back to this and i read more on your website tips. The oven doesn’t seem to heat at all and the range and clock work fine. I took it apart again lastnight and the upper element had burnt insulation ut the bottom did not. The light looked burnt but that could have been oven residue. I ordered the upper element.
Is it common that the light and upper element could be on the same line or have some type of relationship. Also I apprecitated the note on the infinite switch. I may need that next if the element doesn’t fix it. I love doing these things and learning so I can help others if it ever happens to them.
Everything on the oven works except the oven elements. Range burners work, light works, fan works. Still no heat. as for check continuity that’s something I need to learn and I’m sure someone who knows how to do it thinks it’s easy but I need to learn those things by seeing soemone else do them and explaining it.
Anyway as I repeatedly look over the back of my oven and the wiring i keep thinking now that it must be one of the little black boxes on the back of the clock circuit board. I’m not sure if cicuit bord is the right term but all the parts catalogs just call that thing "CLOCK" even though it contians the eleictrical for the oven controls. I don’t see any errors coming up either. I tried Broil and bake again lastnight and I got nothing. After looking at the elements and insulation closer i think they are fine. The dark must be from smokeand grease trying to escape the oven because it’s on every whole higher up in the oven. Making since becasue heat rises and carrys the smoke up.
I’m surprised this isn’t a more common occurance with a common fix.
Thanks for all your help I’m getting a little desperate now.
i keep thinking now that it must be one of the little black boxes on the back of the clock circuit board.
Could be. The black boxes are relays which close a set of contacts supplying power to the element. The clock opens/closes these relays
I’m not sure if cicuit bord is the right term but
Spelling is wrong but the term is right
all the parts catalogs just call that thing "CLOCK"
Yes you will see it called a number of things depending on the manufactures.
I like the term EOC (Electronic Oven Control)
I don’t see any errors coming up either.
No, you will not get an error. The electronics just knows that it tried to close the relay, they do not monitor that the relay actually closed.
I am also leaning towards it being the board/clock.
Note: I am not sure how the overlay is held to the clock, many are glued on (double sided tape) so you may need a new one of those. See "Backguard" section in the parts breakdown, They are 20A and F20 towards the bottom of the list.
Again the only way to be 100% sure that it is the clock is to measure the elements and the wires to ensure they are OK and then by the process of elimination, it must be the clock.
Thanks I think we’re getting close. I’m going to buy the tester today and do a live test that a repairman told me about. Using an old lamp cord to test elements from 110 outlet.
The new clock is about $150 and can’t be returned. Plua the touch clear cover on the front is not included and is hard to remaove and reinstall, another $40 yippy. I haven’t seen where I could buy the new boxes just the entire clock.
Is Frijidaire junk? What do you think is the best brand name for ovens and Refrigeraters if I buy new ones someday?
Before ordering try to remove the faceplate from the clock. Hopefully I am wrong. There is no use getting a new one unless it is absolutely necessary.
If it is glued down, heat around the outside with a hairdryer this will often loosen up the glue to make removal easier.
These days I think most companies make good units and not so good units.
I am not a GE fan as trying to get any tech info on their equipment is very difficult. I try to stay away from fancy, the more bells on a unit the more things that can go wrong. Also they will sell less of these so they will go obsolete quicker. Stay with well established suppliers, not that many years ago Bosch dishwashers were touted as the most reliable but then they had not sold a great number. Today you will see lots of them looking for repair help because now they have a fair number of units in the field.
My fidge will not getting cold in the freezer or refrigerator. How do you check it to see if it needs freon. It’s running but not making ice or getting cold.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=ED25CQXHB01
Here is the tech sheet
[http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Warranty%20Page%20-%202205958-W.pdf](http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%202186936.pdf"]http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%202186936.pdf[/URL]
It is important that you be sure that the compressor is running. It should be warm and you should be able to feel it vibrating.
Remove the cover inside the freezer section so you can see the evaporator coils.
If they only have frost in one area, usually where the freon enters the coils from the compressor. You have a low freon condition.
If they have no frost then either the compressor is toast, you are out of freon or an orifice in the system is plugged.
Any of the above is usually the death knell for a fridge. You need a pro to repair it and it will not be cheap. Also there is no use in refilling a unit with freon unless the leak is found and repaired. This can be difficult.
Here is the warranty sheet for this unit so if it is under 5 years old the sealed system should be covered under warranty.
[URL="http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Warranty%20Page%20-%202205958-W.pdf)