not sure if age is correct, but last time it ran the spin cycle dod not work. motor and capacitor are new. the motor humms when manually set to spin.any help appreciated jeff
When did you replace the motor? Sounds like the motor start winding is not good.
Remove the belt and check if the motor will start by itself.
Gene.
I’m glad you were able to fix it.
Merry Christmas and Happy New year!
Gene.
This Whirlpool washer fill & agitates fine, but when it stops and should move forward to drain & rinse it kind of makes a ticking sound but won’t start the next step. It doesn’t matter if you are doing large heavy loads or perm presss or deligate. it seems to do the same thing no matter what the type of load. I ordered and replaced the timer, but it still does the same thing. What should I check next??
MSR
This is my problem also. I replaced many parts, timer, lid switch, motor, and drive couplings and this problem still haunts me. In my deperation, I’m wondering about inspecting the wiring harness and the "not so common" things that could cause this to happen.
Mark S. Rubino said:
This Whirlpool washer fill & agitates fine, but when it stops and should move forward to drain & rinse it kind of makes a ticking sound but won’t start the next step. It doesn’t matter if you are doing large heavy loads or perm presss or deligate. it seems to do the same thing no matter what the type of load. I ordered and replaced the timer, but it still does the same thing. What should I check next??MSR
Does the motor continue to run as you hear this ticking sound?
I believe sometimes the motor was trying to run as the overtemp safety would trip. I can’t say that was the case since I replaced the motor? I waited until morning to continue to troubleshoot as I didn’t know if the overtemp had tripped. Then I had to hunt with the timer to find a spot in the rinse cycle that would energize the motor and it woudl only hum. I wonder if my problem is:
clutch, brake assy, transmission, or was my "new" timer faulty?
If your motor is stalling, I would suspect a brake. A bad clutch can cause the spin to become sluggish, but probably won’t stall the motor. If the motor is stalling, you can pretty much rule out the timer and the lid switch; It’s obviously getting power to it.
So, if you don’t have a bad brake, I would strongly suspect a gear case (transmission) problem.
ok, I’ll go with that direction. Is there anything obvious to look for when I remove/inpsect the brake assy? Also, will I be able to disassemble the washer without the spanner nut socket? I appreciate your response.
The spanner wrench was invented by someone who got tired of all the wok, and had a better idea. Of course, you can do the woork without it. It will just be more of a struggle.
I recommend you check all the youtube videos on how to repair Whirlpool washers, and go to http://www.appliancedigest.com to download a manual for your machine. You need to register on the web site, but it’s free.
Ok, I ripped the washer down last night and it appears the brake assembly is in good condition per my visual inspection. The transmission is suspect as when I turned the input cog, the output does not turn. This was the case for both clockwise and counterclockwise directions. It appears something has failed inside the gear case and I have not opened it up yet to look. I can buy a new transmission or get a used one for $50? Do you agree that the problem is confirmed to be teh transmission? Your response is appreciated.
Yes. That seems to be the only thing left.
I own a top load Kenmore Elite Oasis washer. A few weeks ago it gave me an F2 error code and quit working. I had been having problems with the washer push button key pad prior to this happening.
In trying to trouble shoot I kept seeing that I needed to replace the CCU board (large plastic incased). I replaced that today and the washer is still not working.
I am wondering if I also need to replace the circuit board that goes behind the key pad. Also wondering if there is some sort of reset switch I need to locate and reset.
I would like to know where can locate a tech sheet for this washer so that I will know the proper name of all of the parts for this washer and how they hook up.
I really need to get my washer fixed, any ideas or solutions to my problem.
— Begin quote from Tim Miller;684601
I own a top load Kenmore Elite Oasis washer. A few weeks ago it gave me an F2 error code and quit working. I had been having problems with the washer push button key pad prior to this happening.
In trying to trouble shoot I kept seeing that I needed to replace the CCU board (large plastic incased). I replaced that today and the washer is still not working.
I am wondering if I also need to replace the circuit board that goes behind the key pad. Also wondering if there is some sort of reset switch I need to locate and reset.
I would like to know where can locate a tech sheet for this washer so that I will know the proper name of all of the parts for this washer and how they hook up.
I really need to get my washer fixed, any ideas or solutions to my problem.
— End quote
Hello Tim.The F-2 failure code is a stuck key pad on this model that is built in to the console AP4303713 This is where I would start, there is no reset buttons on these boards, the only way to reset is to unplug the unit for 5 minutes, Thank you and good luck !
— Begin quote from Gary/APP Team;684984
Hello Tim.The F-2 failure code is a stuck key pad on this model that is built in to the console [part]AP4303713[/part] This is where I would start, there is no reset buttons on these boards, the only way to reset is to unplug the unit for 5 minutes, Thank you and good luck !
— End quote
I am now wondering if I needed the CCU unit I purchased. Can you please let me know if I should return it and purchase the console part listed above. I would like to see a picture of what I am buying so I know I am buying the correct part. Thank you for your help will be looking forward to your answers
— Begin quote from Tim Miller;685067
I am now wondering if I needed the CCU unit I purchased. Can you please let me know if I should return it and purchase the console part listed above. I would like to see a picture of what I am buying so I know I am buying the correct part. Thank you for your help will be looking forward to your answers
— End quote
Hello ,The console is what you need there is not a picture of that, when you look at the backguard , it is a complete assembly, the console has the knobs and buttons that you press to set the unit for whatever setting you need to use the washer. so from looking directly at it there is only a couple of screws that hold the console on hope this helps thank you and good luck !