My washer will no longer spin. I’ve checked the drain pump and tubing. All clear. Pump will start, 5 sec, stop and no spin on the spin / drain setting. Can’t get the rinse/drain to work either. Shock absorber broke (ordered 2 new) so something could be loose I suppose. Wiring seems ok. Door lock solenoid seems ok. Drum spins fine manually.
Did the diagnostics on the front panel. On the diag tests, anytime it says tumble or spin, that doesn’t happen. Error code lights door lock/wash/rinse/final spin/control and the start lights were on 5 times and the start blinked 9 more. Seems to be a 5E code. Not sure what to try next.
Hi Chris. This E5E code is [SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20]Communication problem. [FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20]Refer to test (13). [FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20]Test 13:[/SIZE]
[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20]Communication problem. Check the wiring between the control board and the speed[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]control board (motor control board) part # [[COLOR=#0066cc]AP4354654](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/frigidaire-control-board-item-number-ap3891780.aspx"]AP3891780[/URL]].[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#231f20]Wiring bad. Correct wiring problem.Wiring good. Replace the control board part # [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/frigidaire-control-board-item-number-ap4354654.aspx)]. If the problem is not corrected, replace the speed control board. I suggest since the shocks are on the way already to look at all the rest of the wires and connections. They may have become loose during the shock issue. Then try the unit and then see if it is OK. Let us know if we can assist. further. Thank You. [/SIZE][COLOR=#231f20]
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— Begin quote from csnow;629374
My washer will no longer spin. I’ve checked the drain pump and tubing. All clear. Pump will start, 5 sec, stop and no spin on the spin / drain setting. Can’t get the rinse/drain to work either. Shock absorber broke (ordered 2 new) so something could be loose I suppose. Wiring seems ok. Door lock solenoid seems ok. Drum spins fine manually.
Did the diagnostics on the front panel. On the diag tests, anytime it says tumble or spin, that doesn’t happen. Error code lights door lock/wash/rinse/final spin/control and the start lights were on 5 times and the start blinked 9 more. Seems to be a 5E code. Not sure what to try next.
I did indeed find a loose connection on the speed control board. It was one that connects to the edge of the circuit board. I plugged it in, turned it on and blew something. Must have chosen the wrong connection spot (looks like 2 of them and they are very simliar). Now, no lights, nothing. Does this mean I need a new control board? Do you think the speed control board is ok or am I going to need both? Any chance there is a fuse somewhere that I blew instead of the expensive boards? The lights came on for a second or so and then flashed, noise and off… Thanks.
That’s not it. Would be nice and easy if it was… I heard popping like capacitors blown. I’ll need either just the control board or it and the speed control board…
Hi. If you blew the same board as the wire you plugged back into, then yes you will need to start by replacing the speed control board part # AP3891780]. Thank You.
— Begin quote from csnow;630650
That’s not it. Would be nice and easy if it was… I heard popping like capacitors blown. I’ll need either just the control board or it and the speed control board…
Any way I can figure out which board I need to replace first? If I disconnect the speed control board, should the main panel come up? If not, do I replace the main panel first and then if it doesn’t work, the speed control board?
Hi Chris. Did you get the spped control board and replace it ? Speed (motor) control board # AP3891780. If you unplug it , it will not bring up the fault code denoting the main panel. There are Capacitors on the speed board and if this is the one that blew visually, then this is where to start. Can we assist. you further ? Thank You.
— Begin quote from csnow;631572
Any way I can figure out which board I need to replace first? If I disconnect the speed control board, should the main panel come up? If not, do I replace the main panel first and then if it doesn’t work, the speed control board?
I replaced the main board and the washer lights up again. I saw a spot near j6 which connects to the speed control board where something was definitely blown.
The speed control board looks ok. I wrote down where the 2 connectors were.However, the J#'s on the wiring diagram don’t match where they were on the board. The board lists J1 and it was the J5 on the wiring diagram that was connected. That one is right. J1 is right. The problem I have is that across teh top of the board, I have J1, J2, J3. J1 was connected. I have to connect J3 from the wiring diagram to either J2 or J3. Problem was that I already tried J3 and it blew the main board. Do you know if it really belongs in J2? J2 has 5 spots for connectors, J3 has 7. The wiring connector has 5. Seems it goes in J2 but I’m gun shy.
Hi. We understand about being gunshy because of being careful not to mention @ the cost. The wiring diagram shows that J-1 has 2 wires. The blue wire goes to the C2-1 connector. The black wire goes to the C2-2 connector. The J3 board connection has the C5-1 red wire. The C5-2 white wire. The C5-3 blk. wire. The C5-4 blue wire. The C5-5 is the orange wire. On the J-5 connector, it has the C7-1 as a green wire.
The C7-3 is a gray wire. The C7-4 wire as a white wire. The C7-5 wire as a brown wire . the C7-6 as a red wire. The C-7-7 as a orange wire. This is a standard wire for front loaders. Have you found /and use the tech. sheet folded in a packet ? It should be in the cabinet either under the top, back cover or inside the front as the envelope is clear plastic and it adheres to the cabinet. Hope this works for you. Keep in touch and let us know how it comes along.Thank You.
— Begin quote from csnow;635115
I replaced the main board and the washer lights up again. I saw a spot near j6 which connects to the speed control board where something was definitely blown.
The speed control board looks ok. I wrote down where the 2 connectors were.However, the J#'s on the wiring diagram don’t match where they were on the board. The board lists J1 and it was the J5 on the wiring diagram that was connected. That one is right. J1 is right. The problem I have is that across teh top of the board, I have J1, J2, J3. J1 was connected. I have to connect J3 from the wiring diagram to either J2 or J3. Problem was that I already tried J3 and it blew the main board. Do you know if it really belongs in J2? J2 has 5 spots for connectors, J3 has 7. The wiring connector has 5. Seems it goes in J2 but I’m gun shy.
Thanks. I have the wiring diagram. The issue is the connector #'s on the diagram don’t match the numbers on the actual board. J2 on the board has 5 spots for connectors and J3 has 7. J1 which also has 7 (larger connectors) was where the cable for J5 was plugged in. So, I have 1 cable with 2 spots, J2 and J3. The diagram has it goes in J3 (nothing in J2) but J3 has 7 connectors and the wiring harness only has 5. Does it really go in J2?
Hi. The one with 2- connectors is the J-1 connection. The J-3 connection is the 5 wire connector as the # 1 pin is the red wire… The J-5 connector has 6 wires as the # 1 pin is the orange wire. The conection with the 2 wires go to the J-1 at the board. The 5 wires goes to the J-3 at the board and the first terminal is the orange wire. Use your wiring diagram as the exact reference if this is out dated. All of this refers only to the motor (speed)control board. Thank You.
— Begin quote from csnow;636230
Thanks. I have the wiring diagram. The issue is the connector #'s on the diagram don’t match the numbers on the actual board. J2 on the board has 5 spots for connectors and J3 has 7. J1 which also has 7 (larger connectors) was where the cable for J5 was plugged in. So, I have 1 cable with 2 spots, J2 and J3. The diagram has it goes in J3 (nothing in J2) but J3 has 7 connectors and the wiring harness only has 5. Does it really go in J2?
and on page 65 you will see that there are three connection, using J1 the neutral line, J3 which accepts inputs from the control unit and J5 which is output to the motor.
Looking at the connectors, board and wiring diagram, I’ve concluded that the top of the speed control board has J3 and J5 swapped on the diagram.
The correct order is J5, J3 and unused (7 pin, card edge, same side as J1).
Thank You. Please try this advice and let us know. We are interested in the correct fix as well for your concerns and well being as well as future reference’s. Thank You.
and on page 65 you will see that there are three connection, using J1 the neutral line, J3 which accepts inputs from the control unit and J5 which is output to the motor.
Looking at the connectors, board and wiring diagram, I’ve concluded that the top of the speed control board has J3 and J5 swapped on the diagram.
The correct order is J5, J3 and unused (7 pin, card edge, same side as J1).
In the end, I decided I need the new speed control board. Couldn’t get the old one to work.
Added the new board. Swapped J3/J5 as listed in the manual. Worked. Ran diags, only missing the reed switch for the detergent pull out (not part of the new main control board).
So, I need 2 replacement boards. Next time, pull off the back and get a good look before trying to plug back in the cables!
In the end, I decided I need the new speed control board. Couldn’t get the old one to work.
Added the new board. Swapped J3/J5 as listed in the manual. Worked. Ran diags, only missing the reed switch for the detergent pull out (not part of the new main control board).
So, I need 2 replacement boards. Next time, pull off the back and get a good look before trying to plug back in the cables!
The new control board for the washer does not have a connector for the reed switch. Even included a very poor photocopy of the board showing it disconnected. They said something about testing showing that it wasn’t necessary and to let the customer know that removing the detergent drawer will no longer stop the washer.
HI. I didnt know since your model # was the one of the first front loaders from the manufacture and quickly just wanted to assist. with the part #. I will keep this in mind. Thank You .
— Begin quote from csnow;643855
The new control board for the washer does not have a connector for the reed switch. Even included a very poor photocopy of the board showing it disconnected. They said something about testing showing that it wasn’t necessary and to let the customer know that removing the detergent drawer will no longer stop the washer.