I ordered a door gasket, WH08X10036, which is supposed to be the replacement for WH08X10022. The new gasket has this thick protruding tab at about 1 o’clock that keeps it from going on completely. If it did go on it would rub against the rotating drum. It’s also a much tighter fit than the old gasket. I was thinking of cutting the tab off but if it still doesn’t work, I can’t return it. Any suggestions?
I am not sure that the tab should be there, and it sounds like maybe you got a defective gasket or the wrong one. That part number checks out, so check with your supplier and see if they will exchange it.
There are some pics on the service manual which may also help.
Thanks for the reply and the link. I suspect that all the part numbers are correct and the gasket in the box is wrong. The supplier will take a return. I just don’t want to through this several times. Thanks again.
Ok, good. Let us know how it turns out. These gaskets on front loaders are a real problem, so we need all the info we can get.
Dryer has power will not turn on. Where do I check first for fuses or will the dryer not start if the heating element is bad? Dryer is electric.
Here are your parts, includes a wiring layout.
I am assuming that the unit is getting 240 volts and that you also checked that it is getting the two 120 volt legs.
The motor runs off of 120.
The unit has 2 thermal fuses, both kill power to the motor.
One on the blower (Item 10 in Section 7). The most common cause of this blowing is a malfunctioning/dirty vent system.
And one on the heater (Item6 in Section 6).
If this is blown get back to us as there are other things to check and you may also have to replace the hi-limit thermostat depending on what caused it to blow.
Other things to check are the push to start switch and the door switch.
A blown heating element will not stop the unit from starting.
Denman, fuses checked for cont. and resist. checks out OK. Door switch checks OK, working in both positions for light and closed door. Push start checks OK, too. Blower was a little dirty vac’d lint away. Heating element OK. Element not dirty. How do you test hi limit t stat?
OOPS!! Looks like I forgot to add the link to the parts in my earlier post.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=LDE8616ACE
The hi-limit and the main control thermostat will not stop the unit from running. They just shut off the heating element.
Check the hi-limit the same as fuses.
Unplug the unit, unplug one side of the thermostat and measure it.
It should be 0 ohms.
You can also check the main temperature control thermostat this way.
I think the contacts will be the purple to red.
Note: This thermostat has a heater built into it. This is turned on for the low temperature setting. That is why it has 4 connections.
Your start for the motor circuit is:
Neutral , WH29 , DOOR SWITCH , YL35 , YL34 , PUSH TO START SWITCH , RD30 , motor’s start and run windings via the centrifugal switch , GY51, THERMAL FUSE , GY25 , THERMAL FUSE (HEATER) , GY24 , timer contacts , YL43 , L1
At least that is what it looks like to me when I trace it out.