Back in 2010 I had the main board replaced due to temp fluctuations, condensation on the fresh food side and the freezer getting stuck in defrost mode randomly. At that time I did not know about this site, until I needed to repair my dishwasher a few times. After reading I found out that the main board usually only last about 3yrs, so I just decided to replace it myself. Well I replaced it about 7pm last nite and all was fine. I know it takes a few hrs for the temp to stabilize. 12 hrs later there is no change after replacing the board. Freezer shows +10 and fresh food side shows 42 and I know by feel both sides are colder than its showing. Also condensation is still in the fresh food side mind you I wiped it all out after switching the board. I’m at a lost, did I over look something else that should have been replaced? With my work schedule really the only day I have to check and repair is thurs and sun, so l’m looking to diagnose today so I can order parts if needed to be here on thurs. Thanks in advance.
Could be an air flow restriction. Is the fan motor inside the freezer working? You should be able to hear it running if the refrigerator is running and you would feel air inside the fresh food side where the air flows in. Be sure to close the freezer door when checking for this.
Check the back wall of the freezer for ice crystals on the back wall. If the defrost heaters or defrost thermostat have failed and it’s not defrosting would cause air flow restriction.
Check the coils under the fridge, if dust and such has built up on those coils can cause the fridge to be 5-10 degrees warmer.
Hope that Helps!
Rodge @ http://flippingappliances.com/
— Begin quote from UncleRodge;884876
Could be an air flow restriction. Is the fan motor inside the freezer working? You should be able to hear it running if the refrigerator is running and you would feel air inside the fresh food side where the air flows in. Be sure to close the freezer door when checking for this.
Check the back wall of the freezer for ice crystals on the back wall. If the defrost heaters or defrost thermostat have failed and it’s not defrosting would cause air flow restriction.
Check the coils under the fridge, if dust and such has built up on those coils can cause the fridge to be 5-10 degrees warmer.
Hope that Helps!
Rodge @ Flipping Appliances On a Shoestring Budget
— End quote
Fan is working. I would have to check the rest. I had planned on taking the back panel off the freezer and checking the coils next. Ok 5mins ago the freezer temp was +7 and food side was 38. I was standing there getting something out and you heard everything stop as if it had reached the set temp. I knew it hadn’t because I had set the freezer at 0 and food side at 37. unplugged it for literally 30 sec plugged it back in a freezer was at -7 and food side was at 42… I don’t get it.
Best time to check temps is first thing in the morning. Opening and closing the doors will effect the temperature. Let us know what you find out.
Rodge @ http://flippingappliances.com/
— Begin quote from UncleRodge;884882
Best time to check temps is first thing in the morning. Opening and closing the doors will effect the temperature. Let us know what you find out.
Rodge @ Flipping Appliances On a Shoestring Budget
— End quote
I will do so tomorrow. I think I may have found the problem or the other one anyway. I emptied out the freezer so I could remove the panel to check the coils. No ice no frost, I also took that opportunity to clean out all the frozen gunk at the bottom of the freezer. I had to have had the the freezer opened and unplugged for about 45mins. When I plugged it back in the food side was 52 sounds about rite and the freezer side was at 0. I know there was no way in the world that was rite. I would like to think that would mean the thermostat on the freezer side is the problem. Would I be correct with that conclusion?
Check refrigerator this morning and freezer was still at 0 and fresh food was at 43. Unplugged for 1 min plugged back in a freezer was -5 and food side was 42… any ideas?
Well if changed the main board and changed the thermostat in the fresh food section. The temp on both sides stabilized, but the fresh food side will not go below 42 now. Does anyone have any ideas?
Help someone anyone.
Well issue has never went away, I’ve just been to busy to do anything about it. Both sides get cold, some times too cold. fresh food side rarely gets below 40 even though I have it set to 37. Freezer side has some wild temp fluctuations. I have it set on 0 and can sometimes swing from -3 to 12. Normally this happens over night when I wake up readout makes it look like the unit its getting warmer. If I unplug it and plug it back in temps are normal. One thing I’ve noticed is that in the morning when I get up I don’t hear the compressor running. As soon as I open the freezer and then close it it starts to run. I don’t think that’s normal and not sure if the door switch may be the the issue. I do get some condensation on the fresh food side on the wall next to the freezer and sometimes I hear a creaking sound like that door is sticking. I have changed the main board, temp senor in the fresh food side and the one in the freezer. I am just stuck and my time is limited due to work. I hope someone people on here can point me in the right direction, if not I will just have to breakdown and have sears home repair take a look at it. Thanks in advance.
Hi there - Did you ever figure out why your fresh food side was not cooling properly? I am having the same problem… Freezer is good (but fluctuates) but the fresh food side will not go below 39 or 40 degrees (and fluctuates). I get lots of condensation on the fresh food side that leaks out the door. I would love to know if you found the problem? Thank you!
I have an intermittent problem in my GE Profile side-by-side refrigerator. The refrigerator side usually stays near 37, but the freezer side has excursions from 0 up to 13 and occasionally up to 21. The length of the excursion may be as short as a couple of hours or as long as a couple of days. On one occasion when the freezer went up to 21, the refrigerator did go up to about 45, but nearly all the time the refrigerator stays at or very close to 37. On two occasions the drip pan filled with water and overflowed. When this problem first started, the excursions were only about once a week, but now there is at least one a day.
The fans all seem to be working and I cleaned the compressor way back when I first noticed the problem. I’m not sure what triggers the freezer temperature control to start working correctly, but when it does the freezer temperature goes back to 0 within 2 hours. Seems kind of like a loose connection or a bad solder joint as someone suggested in this thread, or perhaps another similar one. I will look for schematics for this model PSC23sgpass so I can check for bad connections. Any other ideas?
Did you ever found a solution ?