GE refrigerator just clicks but does not cool

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
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1

After a power outage, my fridge will only click at the motherboard, lights dim when it clicks, no ice or water. Researched other threads, checked for 120 VAC at the J7-9 to J8 on the board, yes it’s present. Now, can the remaining parts in the chain, the start relay and the overload, be checked individually? Or can the compressor be checked independently of them? What is the normal resistance for the compressor? What I’m getting at is that I’d prefer not to invest in the overload and/or the relay that I won’t be able to return if it turns out the compressor is shot. Being on a pretty tight budget, I’d rather put that $$ toward a new fridge if at all possible. Thanks in advance,

T.

3

You can perform the compressor test as follows:

Resistance test

  1. Disconnect power to unit.
  2. Discharge capacitor by shorting across terminals with a resistor for 1 minute.
    NOTE: (Some compressors do not have a run capacitor.)
  3. Remove leads from compressor terminals.
  4. Set ohmmeter to lowest scale.
  5. Check for resistance between
    Terminals “S” and “C”, start winding
    Terminals “R” and “C”, run winding
    If either compressor winding reads open (infinite or very high resistance) or
    dead short (0 ohms), replace compressor.

Ground test

  1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.
  2. Discharge capacitor, if present, by shorting terminals through a resistor.
  3. Remove compressor leads and use an ohmmeter set on highest scale.
  4. Touch one lead to compressor body (clean point of contact) and other probe to each compressor terminal.
    If reading is obtained, compressor is grounded and must be replaced.

If both tests are fine - the compressor electrically is good. Most likely the problem is a bad start components.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5237504

Gene.

P.S. Due to Appliance Parts Pros very friendly return policy you can return any parts, even if they already have been installed.

4

Thanks for all the info, Gene. That’s just what I needed.

5

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.

6

My GSH25JFRF CC Just started repetitious clicking tonight and seems to have stopped cooling. No fans, ice, or compressor. I tested the J7-9 to J8 and it has 120v. The compressor values are 6Ω 4.3Ω and 10.8Ω. http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYcmprtest.htm "if those two sets of readings aren’t within about 1/2 ohm of each other, then one of the compressor windings is shorted, and if it runs at all, it’ll run hot and usually end up short-cycling on its overload protector/"

Is my compressor dead?

7

Mcstiff said:
My GSH25JFRF CC Just started repetitious clicking tonight and seems to have stopped cooling. No fans, ice, or compressor. I tested the J7-9 to J8 and it has 120v. The compressor values are 6Ω 4.3Ω and 10.8Ω. http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYcmprtest.htm "if those two sets of readings aren’t within about 1/2 ohm of each other, then one of the compressor windings is shorted, and if it runs at all, it’ll run hot and usually end up short-cycling on its overload protector/"

Is my compressor dead?

I do not think your compressor is dead (electrically). According to the tests results you posted possible the problem is a bad compressor overload/start relay, but it is strange why the fans are not working. It can point to a bad main control board too.

Remove the start relay from the compressor and shake it. If it rattles then it is bad.

Perform the fan motors troubleshooting as described in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/100210-testing-condenser-fan.html

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5227299

Gene.