The washer will fill and drain. Ohm checked the lid switch ok. Ohm checked the fuse ok. The belt is on. The motor never spins to agitate or for spin cycle. Drum pulley is free and also the motor. Both can be turned freely by hand. Tryed to check for codes under drip sheild on motor. But there is no led light as indicated on schmatic. Even pulled motor and pulled drip shield to find the LED. I dont see one on the board at all. Wife been without a machine all week. I really need to get this fixed. Please help me if all possible.
Thanks in advance.
Unplug your machine. Find the motor wiring harness (left-most as you view the motor, facing the wire connectors) with the white w/red stripe wire in it. disconnect that connector. do a continuity check between that wire and the neutral blade of the machine’s power cord. If no continuity, the fuse is bad.
magician59 said:
Unplug your machine. Find the motor wiring harness (left-most as you view the motor, facing the wire connectors) with the white w/red stripe wire in it. disconnect that connector. do a continuity check between that wire and the neutral blade of the machine’s power cord. If no continuity, the fuse is bad.
Magicman, I have continuty there on that wire and the neutral on the plug.
Still no agitation or spin.
What would be the next step?
Same connector: Lid of the machine down. You should find continuity between the orange wire in the connector and the line, or, "hot" blade on the cord. It should open when you open the lid.
If no continuity with the lid down, replace the lid switch.
magician59 said:
Same connector: Lid of the machine down. You should find continuity between the orange wire in the connector and the line, or, "hot" blade on the cord. It should open when you open the lid.
If no continuity with the lid down, replace the lid switch.
Majicman,No Orange in that plug. Left to right I have 4 wires
Green with yellow tracer
White with red tracer
Red with black tracer
Last wire is either green or grey.
In the last wire I have continuity with lid down and open with lid up.
OK. You eithe rhave a bad timer or the motor is bad. Timers fail more frequently than motors. If you have a wiring diagram with your achine (most GEs don’t have them), you may be able to do some voltage tests to determine which; but by the numbers, it’s the timer.
[part]AP4380181[/part]
[SIZE=3]If the LED isn’t flashing then the motor is most likely the problem. The control (timer/main board) will not cause the LED to go out. Now no LED may just be a coincidence, it could have been out for a while but generally if the LED isn’t flashing and the fuse isn’t blown the motor is the problem. Make sure you have power to the motor by testing from the red/black wire to the white/red wire; you should have 110 anytime the washer is plugged in. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Now put the washer into high-speed spin mode. There should be a red plug on the far right of the motor. With the washer in spin there should be 12 VDC between pins 5 (pin farthest right it should be purple) to pin 3 (third from left blue) and 12 VDC from pins 5 to pin 4 (forth from left black). If the voltages are good and the motor will not run the motor is bad. If you are not getting the correct voltage replace the control. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]HydroWave GE Washer Repair Guide[/SIZE]
Hey Applianceman:
I was getting some of my info from your website. You got a manual available on this generation of machine?
[SIZE=3]All the manuals I have a paper manuals but if you go to [/SIZE][Download Manager - ApplianceDigest.com](http://appliancejunk.com/forums/"][SIZE=3]http://appliancejunk.com/forums/[/SIZE][/URL]
[SIZE=3]Or [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][URL="http://appliancedigest.com/index.php?/files/)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]If you to go the GE f[/SIZE][SIZE=3]orum on applinaceJunk and look at any washer thread. JW has posted a link to a manual on almost every GE washer thread. They regularly post manuals for this washer but I have never looked at them because I have the paper manuals. [/SIZE][SIZE=3]I have answered on a lot of those threads as well (screen name ryan111). [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]On the pages I wrote on my website I have tried to simplify the info but I don’t have all the info that is in the manual, only the things I believe most people will need to know [FONT=Times New Roman](from experience in the field) . I am thinking about putting up another page that digs deeper on testing voltages on the motor like what I posted on this thread so that people with more electrical testing skills can confirm that it is the motor vs. control. [/FONT][/SIZE]
applianceman said:
[SIZE=3]If the LED isn’t flashing then the motor is most likely the problem. The control (timer/main board) will not cause the LED to go out. Now no LED may just be a coincidence, it could have been out for a while but generally if the LED isn’t flashing and the fuse isn’t blown the motor is the problem. Make sure you have power to the motor by testing from the red/black wire to the white/red wire; you should have 110 anytime the washer is plugged in. [/SIZE][SIZE=3]Now put the washer into high-speed spin mode. There should be a red plug on the far right of the motor. With the washer in spin there should be 12 VDC between pins 5 (pin farthest right it should be purple) to pin 3 (third from left blue) and 12 VDC from pins 5 to pin 4 (forth from left black). If the voltages are good and the motor will not run the motor is bad. If you are not getting the correct voltage replace the control. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]HydroWave GE Washer Repair Guide[/SIZE]
I have 12VDC between 3 and 5. Also have 12VDC at 4 and 5. So I guess its safe to say that the motor is bad as it still never starts up.
I appretiate all the help that I get from this forum.
I also see that my model number does not come up. It gives me this model number as the closest match WJRE5500G0WW .
Mine is WJRE555OHOWW. Are they all the same parts between the two models?
I would like to order up a motor and get the wife all squared away this week. She starting to get a little restless without having a machine all week.
[SIZE=3]I am almost sure the parts will be the same but you may want to call to be sure. All that part of the model number means is what year the washer was made. [/SIZE]
Do either of you fine young gentlemen happen to have a schematic to the timer board? It does have three 12vdc relays on it, and they can be replaced easily enough if one has the experience. Now the surface mounted stuff is another matter entirely. As is the software.Thanks!
Do either of you fine young gentlemen happen to have a schematic to the timer board? It does have three 12vdc relays on it, and they can be replaced easily enough if one has the experience. Now the surface mounted stuff is another matter entirely. As is the software.Thanks!
— Begin quote from jp-nelsen@texband.net;330728
Do either of you fine young gentlemen happen to have a schematic to the timer board? It does have three 12vdc relays on it, and they can be replaced easily enough if one has the experience. Now the surface mounted stuff is another matter entirely. As is the software.Thanks!
— End quote
[SIZE=3]GE doesn’t provide us with that type of information. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]