GE Washing Machine: NO agitate or spin

My GE whdsr316g0ww has not shown any indication that anything was going wrong. Quite unexpectedly, today, it WILL NOT agitate or spin. It WILL fill with water and drain.

I’m wondering if this could be bad lid switch or fuse, but don’t know how to check.

Gene mentioned in another thread something about an LED on the motor, but that was for a different model and I don’t know if my motor has an LED. I looked, but could not find one and saw no blinking when the motor should have been running.

Thanks!

You can use the instructions from one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/9409-ge-washer-will-fill-drain-but-no-spin-agitate.html

Open the control panel and look for the mini-manual with all error codes. Post the results.

Gene.

I had installed a new motor and all was working properly. But the motor stopped working during the third load of laundry. I removed the front panel and observed that the light on top of motor was blinking - 7 times. I removed the control panel and found the mini-manual, which shows that 7 blinks indicates a problem with the lid switch, which I had bypassed. I reconnected the lid switch and all is functioning properly . . . at least for now. :slight_smile:

By the way, Gene, your posts in other threads were extremely helpful for me. THANK YOU!

You are welcome. I’m glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.

I recently purchased part for my refrigater/freezer. I received the correct part ( I think ) But i need help in transfering the fan blade from the old to the new motor. How do I remove the fan blade and reattach it to the new one??? Does this just pull off and push back on the new?? This seems to be real tight on the existing shaft.Thanks email fleenerd@iowatelecom.net

Answered here: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/62010-refrigerator.html

Gene.

Hi,

I have the same GE washer (WHDSR316G0WW) with the same exact problem (won’t spin) and I also cannot find the flashing LED. I even removed the circuit board cover from the motor and still couldn’t find the LED. I suspect the motor failed and I was hoping someone could tell me how I could test it to make sure. I have read about other motors that it is possible to test the resistance across certain coils to determine if these are bad, but what about worn brushes? I found some metallic/magnetic dust on the bottom of the motor and suspect the brushes may be worn out.

By the way, I tested my lid switch and it looks good. I also tested the fusible link and it looks bad (no continuity across link when power off.) I bypassed the fusible link and the motor still doesn’t work. Timer seems to work (voltages change across wires, but not sure if correct voltages.) Washer is only three years old, but I recall some severely out of balance knocking that occurred during the last known good wash cycle. Finally, the wiring diagram that came with the washer doesn’t seem to have voltage/amp information for individual wires.

Thanks,
Chris

Hi Chris,

You can see the LED location in the attached file as well as other instructions.

Remove the C2 plug from the inverter. Check for 120 VAC between the wires to pins 3(white/red wire) & 6(gray wire) and 3(white/red wire) & 5 (red/black wire) at the C2 inverter plug with the lid closed and the fuse bypassed while the timer calls for wash.

If there is proper voltage, replace the fuse and the motor. In such situation you will need the special drive belt installation tool kit.

Gene.

Hi Gene,

Thanks for your post and attachments. I still couldn’t find the LED and the wire colors were slightly different. Is the LED a standard type shaped like a cylinder with rounded top? I only saw a couple of small black, rectangular shaped components on the circuit board in the general vicinity where the LED is supposed to be, but nothing lit up. Perhaps some of these motors are not the same?

I followed your voltage testing instructions and I did detect voltage, however, the voltage was up around 166 volts for both pairs of wires tested. Is this problematic? The wire at pin 6 was solid orange and not grey, for your information. I checked the diagram and this wire leads to the lid switch. The voltage to the lid switch drops to 16 volts when the lid is opened.

Is there any way to repair the motor instead of replacing the whole thing?

Thanks,
Chris

— Begin quote from ganamide;228426

…the voltage was up around 166 volts for both pairs of wires tested…

— End quote

Chris,

You may want to check the voltage at the wall outlet. 166 volts is way too much.

The motor is not serviceable and the inverter is not removable.

Gene.

How do you remove the upper and lower spray arms and reinstall them?

I have the same model (whdsr316g0ww) and it suddenly stopped spinning and agitating. it still fill water in and drains it out. I opened the front panel and there is 6 green light flashing. I got the minimanual and it said in the description: locked rotor, and action: make sure system is free. what does that mean? do i have to replace the motor? please help.

It means to make sure everything rotates freely, motor-belt-drive pulley-basket. If it does, reset the inverter. Place timer in off position, unplug washer for 1 minute, plug back in and open/close lid 5 or more times within 6 seconds to clear the error code. Try the machine again. If you get the same error code, the motor/inverter needs to be replaced.

Eric

My washing machine quit spinning and agitating. I read online that it was probably the coupling. We replaced the coupling but it still is not working. Any other suggestions?

In reply to the lady who struggled getting the agitator off, you are supposed to fill the tank part way with warm water and it came up pretty easy.