The repair of my Whirlpool BU3200XTPQO dishwasher started on the suspicion of a bad motor bearing after hearing the distinctive high pitch sound for several months. As I try to obtain service manuals shortly after an appliance purchase, I had the manual in hand and was ready to go. (Best to get the manuals while they are still in print.)
Appliance Parts Pros have numerous manuals, Just search “Whirlpool Dishwasher Do-It-Yourself Manual”. Manuals are nicely done with lots of coloured pictures.
-As kitchens are not the best work areas the unit was disconnected (in & out water and electrical), & moved to table in garage. Unit was fastened down as it will tip forward.
-Located "Remove motor and Pump" section in my trusty Do-It-Yourself Manual, grabbed my 20 torx screw driver and convinced myself I was ready!
-Internal parts where removed and placed in pail, better here than all over the floor.
-Remove arms, accumulator assemble and feed tubes inside tub.
- Tipped the unit on side and removed all necessary parts and electrical connections and marked.
- Removed drain pump housing and pressure switch
-Pulled out the three hold downs on motor and pulled motor and pump up and out.
-Place unit on bench and separate pump from motor.
-Mark motor alignment with magic marker or score.
-Remove Impeller and volute housing from motor.
-Remove 4 screws to disassemble motor. Motor has no brushes to contend with. Pulled the bearings off armature with small bearing puller. I replaced both bearings ($4.59 ea).
-Emery off any rust on armature shafts so bearings fit snug. Tap inside bearing race only when installing bearings. Re-assemble motor.
Get new Volute/Seal, Face Seal, Face Seal Rubber and Impeller. My completed motor and pump is now just as good as new.
-Alternatively, new motors are reasonably priced.
-While waiting for parts, do a thorough clean up of inside tub, parts and screens.
-Remove control panel and check for any mold or limestone buildup and clean.
-Re-assembly of the rest is just in reverse order.
-I bench tested by hooking up water lines and ran through cycle on bench. I remembered not to run unit without water. The seals need water to lubricate.
My unit now operates as originally intended with no leaks, rebuilt for under 50 bucks.
Post-mortem; The stainless steel face on the mechanical seal was scored, probably caused by sand particles or limestone as we are on a well system. It appears that water then started to wick its way back to the motor and took out the outboard bearing causing that high pitch whine. This took about 6 years. I have now installed a small under counter in line water filter in hopes of preventing this again. 