Here is the scoop. The oven got stuck in very high temp and burned food with spectacular smoke. The door was locked and one had to disconnect the range from power to prevent fire. I took the rear panel off and saw a number on the control board: 60C06510104
I looked at the part the above thread mentioned: T90N1D42-24
It was obviously stuck closed causing the broiler heater on all the time.
I purchased new replacement parts for $10 or so and replaced both of those relays (for broil and bake heating elements). I tested the relays before install and they worked fine.
Here is the new problem: The relay for bake heating element never comes on anymore and the bake temp is too low (with only the upper element working). Also the timer buzzer doesn’t sound anymore.
There are no new error codes after I cleared the overheat error code.
My wife wants a new range and we looked at some, but the new ranges are slightly wider than the old one and they will not fit into the tight spot within granite countertops.
So, do you guys think I fried the control panel by soldering in and out the relays? This would be the first one for me and I did repair PC motherboards with success in the past.
I guess I could buy a replacement control board, but should I be looking for anything else? I checked the temp sensor and it has a nominal resistance. The heating elements are fine and bake element comes on nicely when relay is activated by a screwdriver.
I checked the temp sensor and it has a nominal resistance
By nominal I am assuming you mean normal (approx 1100 ohms at room temperature). Also am assuming that the oven either stays in preheat or takes forever to get up to ready (set point)
Soldering should not have screwed up the electronics unless you overheated the crap out of it. Since you have repaired other boards in the past, you have some soldering experience so that would not happen.
I do not have schematics of the actual board components so I do not know how sensitive they are to static charges.
I would check the trails to the relay coil just in case one of them has a hair line crack.
Check you solder points if they have pin holes or are a dull gray redo them, you may have a cold solder joint.
Thanks to your advice, I took the range apart again and looked at the soldering points closely with a magnifying glass and checked for conductivity. To make the story short, the new desoldering iron I used runs too hot and damaged a trail just next to the soldering point.
I fixed it and the bake heating element works.
I still need to fix the missing timer buzzer. Maybe it’s in the settings?
Thanks again!
It was a bit more complicated than what the page 16 explained. One had to make sure the tone was on for timer, tone, and baking as the same time. Three separate settings, page 15, 16, and 24 of the manual. It was not explained well. But, the range is well now and the fresh relays should hopefully work for the next 15 years.
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.