[COLOR=Red]PROBLEM SOLVED!!! [/COLOR]
It was the freezer door "light switch", which also has a third pole that sends a signal to the main board letting it know the door is closed so the auger will turn.
The male connector on the third pole had a small burnt spot on if from a bad connection I assume.
I now have ice, and just wanted to share this in case someone runs into this again!
Thanks to all,
Mick
My refrigerator has no problems EXCEPT: the ice in door feature is not working. You push the tab, the ice flap opens, but the motor does not run the auger (in either cube or crush mode). The left hand rail that holds the ice bin is broken at the back, and allows the bin to sag a little, but not sure if that would cause the problem. I can troubleshoot and use a multimeter, just not sure where to start and thought I would ask the experts.
Remove the ice bin, tape the door switch, press the ice lever and check if the crasher motor is getting 120VAC. A lot of times the motor gears just get frozen, if that the case - take it out and defrost it.
OK, got a chance to tear into it. With the light switch taped down, the motor was getting zero volts. Since it had a little ice on the cover, I removed it and let it melt and dried it off. Then measured the voltage at the plug for the motor (orange wire and black with white stripe wire) and was reading about 23.5-24 volts. Reassembled and tried with no success, what would be my next step?
Locate the main control board at the back under the metal cover.
At the J7 plug (next to the relays) with ice lever pressed check for 120VAC between pins 1 and 9.
No 120V - replace the control board
Measured voltage at the 1 and 9 terminals of the board, read the same nominal voltage at the terminals that was read at the motor. Ordered the board and a few other pieces that were needed.
Thanks for the advice, will post the results when I replace the board.
Received parts (ordered them at 2pm on Friday, received them @ 6:30pm on Saturday!). Replaced control board, still getting around 20 volts at the orange and black w/white stripe wires at both the board and icemaker.
Edited to add: Wonder if I didn’t get a bad board, since getting the same voltage instead of 120?
Help?
OK, checked the dispenser control. When I hit the dispense ice lever, I can hear click from a relay in the rear (I assume on the main control board) and the voltage goes from zero at the orange and blk/white wires where the dispenser motor plugs in to about 20. Since this should indicate the control board is good, I am still betting on a bad replacement main board since there is only 20 volts at the board going to the auger motor.
Before I order the dispenser control board, is there a wiring diagram I could get to see where the 120 volts for the auger is coming from? Or anyone that has seen a similar problem and can chime in?
No offense intended to Gene, I just feel that since the control is doing its job, the problem is upstream where the 120 volts should be coming from. Please feel free to correct me, I am just kind of flying by the seat of my pants here.
It’s hard to believe that the new board is bad but in today’s world…
Before you will order and install the replacement part, you may want to check the voltage across the same terminals while the dispenser is off and then the same test wile the dispenser calls for ice, just to compare the results. Also would not hurt to measure the voltage between the pin J7-1 and the ground.
Gene.
P.S. Make sure the freezer door is closed or the door switch is taped in during the tests.
This is a baffling one. Had a service guy out today for my Bosch washer (under warranty thank God), he had a new main and dispenser board on his truck. Changed both, no difference, checked all wires for continuity, all good, he was as baffled as I was. Coming back next week and will call GE support while here to see if they have a fix.
Till then, digging out ice by hand (like we had to do when we were kids LOL)
Thanks Gene, will post the results of what comes from this, maybe it will help someone later.
