I have a Whirlpool Side By Side Fridge with in door water and ice dispenser
Model Number GD5SHAXLQ02
About a week ago it just stopped making ice.
The water dispenser works fine - and if i place ice in the bucket - the ice dispenser works fine also.
I have the ice maker service manual - and have followed testing the sensor codes and they are working fine (the 2 blinks seperated by a 1second pause)
i did attempt jumping the ice making unit to cause a harvest (per the service manual) - but nothing seemed to happen - (im not positive i jumped it properly since im just putting a wire in the two holes it mentions in the manual)
I felt the nozzle that puts water into the tray and it is not frozen - it appears to be the ice making unit itself - but how can i be positive - its the entire unit and not just the wiring harness or something?
I believe the blinking LED means the optics are faulty. The ice maker dead with the jumper wire probably shows the same thing because power to the ice maker comes through the optic board.
Thanks for Replying Gene
but according to the service manual
when open it should be blinking twice followed by a 1 second pause
[FONT=ArialMT]
[LEFT]"1. Open the freezer door.
2. View the status LED. It should flash twice,
pause for 1 second, and repeat the cycle[/LEFT]
for as long as the door is open."
I also checked that while holding in the Door switch (to emulate "closed door") that the optics light was steady on - which again according to the manual is correct.
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=ArialMT]
[LEFT]"5. Make sure that the door switch is not
pushed in, and view the status LED. With
the flapper door on the emitter module
held closed, and the ice maker not in the 5
minute “harvest” mode, the status LED
should be on steady. This indicates that[/LEFT]
the optics circuits are operating properly."
Thus im not thinking its the optics board.
[/FONT][/COLOR]
[/FONT]
My recommendations are based on whatever you posted.
— Begin quote from ____
… have followed testing the sensor codes and they are working fine (the 2 blinks seperated by a 1second pause)…
— End quote
You did not mention the position of the flopper door.
Later you posted: — Begin quote from ____
…I also checked that[COLOR=Red] while holding in the Door switch (to emulate "closed door") that the optics light was steady on - which again according to the manual is correct…[/COLOR]
— End quote
and later in the same reply: — Begin quote from ____
…[FONT=ArialMT][FONT=ArialMT][COLOR=blue] Make sure that the[COLOR=Magenta] door switch is not[/COLOR][COLOR=Magenta]
[/COLOR][COLOR=Magenta]pushed in…[/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT]
— End quote
I need you to very accurately run all the tests described in the manual and post the results.
I have a pdf copy of the service manual for my Whirlpool icemaker
i cannot attach it for whatever reason - i get an invalid page error message or something.
Id be happy to get it to you but im not sure how.
im going to be checking my ice maker tonight to see if im getting power to the module.
Thanks Deadpool,
If the pdf is on your hard drive try attaching it to an email to philwarner@centurytel.net.
I am still a bit in the dark about how the ice maker works, but the good news is that after swapping the older motor module onto the newer ice maker and leaving it plugged to the connector and on the top freezer shelf or awhile, it finally went through a cycle (unfortunately missing the cup I'd set under the water tube and showering the freezer) and after I put it back in place last night it has been making ice as it should. What a nice sound to finally hear the ice falling into the dispenser, and we can put away the trays we'd been filling and dumping in the bin.
Apparently there is a thermostat somewhere that breaks the circuit to the motor until it is cold enough to freeze water; it may be a pretty high threshold because when it first cycled and filled the ice mold, the temp inside was 28 degrees according to my non-contact thermometer.
Good luck with your own projest and remember to check the voltage at the test ports while the ice maker is still cold. I can see these checks were a lot easier when the ice maker was installed front-to-back like in our old Whirlpool side by side (the donor of the motor module) and not side to side like the newer one where you have to take it out to get to the test points.
I forgot to ask if you've tested the coil on the ice maker water valve; mine was open and I took one off the old Whirlpool to replace it. You can take the valve assembly loose at the rear lower left side of the fridge (lower right looking at the back), unplug the coil (the white plug on mine) and use a spare cord to run 120V across the coil and see if water flows to the ice maker tube. Alternately you can check the resistance of the coil; if I remember my good ones were between 3 to 5 ohms and the bad one had no continuity.
Unfortunately the parts suppliers only sell the assembly, but if there are any used appliance salvage places around, these appear to be pretty universal and may even be the same as used on washers and dishwashers, Also I saw a new single water valve on ******** with a coil that looked exactly like my bad one for about $18 with free shipping; that’s a little easier to swallow than $125 plus tax or shipping for the assembly.
Swap the wires on the water valve solenoids and push the water dispenser lever. Open the freezer door and check if there is water in the ice maker. If the answer is Yes, then the water valve is bad.
Swap the wires on the water valve solenoids and push the water dispenser lever. Open the freezer door and check if there is water in the ice maker. If the answer is Yes, then the water valve is bad.
I’m new to this forum, and not very familiar with how it works. I have a Kenmore(Whirlpool) side by side refrigerator with ice bin in the door. The ice maker would not turn off, and the electric eye was not working. I ordered the replacement two piece circuit boards that are shown in this forum, and replaced the boards. However, while waiting on the parts to arrive, the ice maker stopped making ice. Now that I have replaced the boards, the LED lights blink like they should, but no ice is being made. Is there a way to trigger the icemaker to cycle? I’m thinking maybe it got hung up some how when the unit wouldn’t turn off. I did run a blow dryer on it in an attempt to melt any ice that might be clogging the mechanism up.
i looked at the valve and there are 2 connectors to the valve -
i assume 1 for indoor the other for the freezer
when i take the connectors off though they are different sizes so i cannot simmply switch them- also i thought about switching the water tubes but of course they are different sizes also.
Any ideas?
I’m new to this forum, and not very familiar with how it works. I have a Kenmore(Whirlpool) side by side refrigerator with ice bin in the door. The ice maker would not turn off, and the electric eye was not working. I ordered the replacement two piece circuit boards that are shown in this forum, and replaced the boards. However, while waiting on the parts to arrive, the ice maker stopped making ice. Now that I have replaced the boards, the LED lights blink like they should, but no ice is being made. Is there a way to trigger the icemaker to cycle? I’m thinking maybe it got hung up some how when the unit wouldn’t turn off. I did run a blow dryer on it in an attempt to melt any ice that might be clogging the mechanism up.
I have a pdf copy of the service manual for my Whirlpool icemaker
i cannot attach it for whatever reason - i get an invalid page error message or something.
Id be happy to get it to you but im not sure how.
im going to be checking my ice maker tonight to see if im getting power to the module.
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