I ran out of LP gas a few weeks ago. When the tank was refilled and I lit the oven, heavy black smoke came out of the oven burner. I shut the oven off and cleaned it after cooling. Some soot settled on the oven ignitor and it burned out.
I replaced the ignitor, and the oven still didn’t lite. The broiler works fine. I swapped the oven and broiler ignitors, both are ok. I talked to a parts person on here and they said that the oven is controlled by the clock assembly and the oven temp probe, and that either could be bad. I was also told that using the self clean feature shortenes the clock assembly life due to excess heat. Since I was already having trouble with the oven giving me an error code when I tried to self clean (I believe it said oven not locked or oven open) I figured it was the clock.
I removed the temp probe assembly and checked it with an ohm meter. The ohm value changed as the probe was partially submerged in boiling water, so I assumed it was good. Clock was ordered and installed. Oven still doesn’t work, but broiler does. help!!
I surfed the net and found www.********.com. There I found the ohm specs on the gas valve. A good valve should test around 2-5 ohms. The one for my broiler (the side that worked) tested at 1.4 ohms. The oven side of the valve tested at 10.6 ohms.
Curiosity got the best of me so I took the valve apart. The oven side of the valve was obviously bad, there were burned wires and a large carbon smudge.
Do yourselves a favor. Don’t take the advice of the parts people. I invested in a clock assembly and a temp probe "because that is all that controls the gas to the oven." Neither were bad. Now I have to buy a gas valve.
I see that other web addresses are blocked automatically. Everyone knows the three same letters and dot that go first, follow that by the words fix it now with no spaces between then your usual ending.
I’ve replaced the icemaker with part #5303918277. It had a small jumper with it I had to use. The icemaker is still not working. The water dispenser is working, so one side of the dual valve is operating. Is there any other area I should look other than the water valve. I don’t have a diagram available to me.
Glynn
i purchased the same replacement ice maker for my fridgedaire and can’t get it to fill either. i also replaced the fill valve assembly. it will complete the cycle when i move the gears but no water. will watch your post for help.
Gene, I found the wiring diagram yesterday. It’s awful small for an old guy. But yes I had to use the jumper because the new icemaker would not plug into the existing plug, mismatch, male to male.
Chuck, another member, said he is having the same trouble. New icemaker and new water valve for him and he said it still doesn’t work.
I didn’t want to invest the money for a new water valve if this icemaker is not compatiable. I should have taken a ohm reading on the solenoid valve while I was there. May have to go back, it’s 20 miles one way.
I guess I’ll have to get out the magnifying glass and trace out the wiring to see what I can find.
I thought about swapping the water lines and connectors to the water dispenser part of the valve, it’s in an office breakroom and they don’t use the water side, but I still think the problem is in the icemaker itself.
Thanks
Glynn
If it does not then make sure the arm is in the "on" or down position. Unplug the ice maker and check for 120VAC between the yellow (neutral) and the black (line) wires.
If it does harvest then swap the wires between the ice maker and the water dispenser solenoids, push the water release lever on the door and check if the ice maker got water. If it did then the water valve has to be replaced.