On march 3rd I ordered a Thermal fuse kit for this dryer. I replaced the fuse as I didnt have time to replace the Hi limit switch at the time. Well the fuse blew yesterday. I cleaned all the traps/vents/front assembly so there was no blockage before I replaced the fuse. Well I looked today and everything is clear. I was going to quick replace the hi limit switch but one of the blades is no where to be found on the hi limit switch and I have no idea if it was broke when I recieved it or not as I didnt take the time to replace it while I was in the dryer. Anyways what else could be causing this dryer to blow the fuse’s other than lint buildup since there is ZERO lint build up in this thing. I have had this dryer 7 or 8 years. Not sure the exact yearage since I have only lived in this house 8.5 years. I just ordered another fuse kit but would like to know all the "issues" to look for besides a blockage. The exhaust fan spins freely as well.
Oh forgot to add that this dryer hasnt been drying clothes as "quickly" as it used to. It used to dry them in 65 min now it takes 100 min to dry a load. Should I also replace the coil?
[COLOR=Black]I do not have a wiring diagram for this dryer so my comments are just general and not specific to this unit
I was going to quick replace the hi limit switch but one of the blades is no where to be found on the hi limit switch and I have no idea if it was broke when I recieved it or not as I didnt take the time to replace it while I was in the dryer.[/COLOR]
Not quite sure what this means?
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The one I recieved from appliancepartspros.com has a broken blade so all I did was replace the fuse. since the hi limit switch that was sent to me was broke. I just figured the hi limit switch that is still in the dryer should work still but now I know better. being an electrical apprentice I have alot to learn still :D.
So in essance what you are saying is that the hi limit switch not being replaced when I replaced the fuse is why the thermal fuse most likely blew again?
I have a $350 meter I use that my employer bought me so im not worried about that :D. I didnt think of checking the heat elements for ohms ill do that. The blower fan doesnt spin on the shaft so I am sure that is good.
[COLOR=Blue]So in essance what you are saying is that the hi limit switch not being replaced when I replaced the fuse is why the thermal fuse most likely blew again?
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No, all I am saying is that it is a possibility.
It should not blow the fuse unless the high limit has a problem.
Also you have another problem because the unit should not run on the high limit even if the high limit is good.
Ok I went through everything you sugested as possabilities.
No problems with wheel. Its quite tight and I couldnt get it to spin on the shaft. It spins freely. However it spins freely in both directions but only one direction turns the drum. Should this be of concern?
Heater reads 11 ohms when touched together and "OL" when checking to ground.
Cycling thermostat changes from .1 ohms to "OL" when I heated it up with a hair dryer and it didnt take but 2 seconds for it to switch.
I couldnt find any cracks on any of the seals anywhere that would leave me to believe an air leak. Matter of fact the door seal still looks like the day I bought the dryer.
the filter/hoses/all that involves "lint" are all clean with no issues.
I just got the fuse that I ordered yesterday (talk about quick service) so I will install the new fuse AND change the hi limit but I still want to make sure there isnt something missing I should check before running it too long (You know how women can get when one of "their" appliances goes out of commision for a day or 2) as I want to try and avoid having to do this all over again in a month and a half.