I read your information and determined the slow or no spin was due to a clutch rather than brakes. Total current draw is around 8 amps. 8.5 max nomater what cycle it was in. The spin is much better when it spins but I found that if the washer has been agitating then switched to spin that the water would pump out but no spin. As soon as I let off the lid switch the motor stops and tub will move very sightly with a click. Pushing the lid switch again the spin works great. I can start and stop it many times with no problems. If I go to an agitate cycle for a few moments it will hang up again the first time.
I filed the brake pads lightly while I had it apart and greased the rollers etc. as one of your proceedures stated. One thing I didn’t do was oil the brake pads. In a car that would be bad. Is that the solution here or what should I try?
Thank you so much.
Marlin
HI Marlin
I am sorry but your post is very confusing, and I cannot really understand what you are describing.
You initially state that the clutch is the problem, but then go onto talk about the brakes. Did you replace the clutch??
It also sounds like your timer is not stopping the motor after the drain function. This is necessary to start the spin cycle. When you open the lid and stop the motor with the lid switch this mimics the timer stopping the motor and that can be why your machine starts to spin again.
So, you may have two problems, a bad clutch and a bad timer. If the brakes release ok, and the motor runs but you do not have a spin your clutch or drive block can be the problem. If the timer does not stop the motor after the drain, the timer can be a problem.
The brakes do not release when it goes into the spin cycle. If I raise the lid to stop the spin cycle and close the lid again the brakes do release and it will spin normally. I have replaced the clutch.
Ok Marlin, thanks for the clarification.
I am back to my original diagnosis. For your machine the timer must stop the motor temporarily after the drain. During the drain the transmission is in neutral, so that the machine is not trying to spin with all that water in it.
After the water is drained, the timer stops the motor, the transmission shifts into spin mode, the clutch engages and releases the brakes and the machine goes into spin.
If your timer will not stop the motor, none of this can happen.
When you raise the lid you cause the lid switch to stop the motor, which simulates what the timer should be doing. When you lower the lid, the machine works as designed.
Here is the time, unfortunately it is rather expensive, but hopefully it will solve your problem.
[part]AP3100439[/part]
Good luck, hope that fixes things.
Thank you so much. I think before I order the timer I will let it run through a load or two all by it’s self. I’ve been manually advancing it to test the spin.
Marlin
That’s a good idea, occasionally this sort of thing works itself out.