I ordered a PTC relay and overload assembly for my Kitchen Aid side by side refrigerator / freezer. Part number Whirlpool # 819160.
The instructions are not clear. I have an Embraco compressor and have removed the old PTC and overload relay with no problem. My confusion is with the "L" wire from the new unit. In the instructions it says to connect it to the Cabinet Lead Red in one figure (8), and in Figure 6 it says to connect it to the terminal box?? In all of the diagrams, it never shows a connection to the "C" terminal on the compressor. That’s where the old overload relay was connect to.
I also have two white wires coming from one side of the Start capacitor. The diagrams only show one wire (red in the diagrams)
In the instructions, Procedure 3, paragraph "J" it says to connect the white wire with terminals from the junction box to compressor terminals "C". That completely confuses me. Nothing in the figures show any connection going to the "C" terminal.
HELP.
I reconnected the old unit as it still works but is intermittent.
Tell me what you want to replace, the overload device, or the start device or both?
From the picture, I have no idea what this device does!!
It seems like the two of them are built into one unit. The installation instructions say "PTC Relay and Overload Assembly. The unit has three letters on the leads, S, M and L. The S lead goes to one side of the Start Capacitor, the other side goes to the S input on the compressor. The M lead goes to goes to the other side of the Start Capacitor and then to the M input of the compressor. The L lead (I’m guessing that is for overLoad??) says in the instructions that it goes to the terminal box?? But the diagrams don’t show any connection to the C input on the compressor. Very confusing.
Check some things for me please. The capacitor is a 15 mf RUN capacitor, right! The refrigerator has R12 refrigerant, is that correct!
The only thing that makes sense is this is a start device only.
Assuming you have a 15 mf capacitor and you want to replace the overload and start device, this device is not usefull for you, just send it back.
Order a URO41 (AP4503418) for 1/4 to 1/3 hp compressors.
To wire this in, you will need a meter to check the compressor, unless you know which compressor pins are common, start and run.
Hi Rich:
It’s a 20mf run capacitor. The one side has two white wires, on from the AC and the other goes to the M terminal of the PTC. I have a close up photo I could send you of the original unit, which consisted of two separate items, the PTC and the overload relay.
I know the compressor is good, the unit works OK, but sometime goes dead like the plug was pulled. No lights, no ice machine action. Should I still abandon this item?
Don’t think you have a compressor component problem, the problem is someplace else like a cold control. If you monitor the voltage to the compressor,it would probably show no voltage when it fails.
So I guess it’s time to consult a pro? The main problem it that it’s so intermittent. I never know when it will shut off.
Without a meter, it will be hard to trace the problem, might want to replace it, it’s a rather old unit, new ones are much more efficient, less chance of failure.
Rich, is there any way to replace the compressor and associated items and keep the refrigerator and freezer?
First I would verify you have a problem with the compressor start components. If you suspect them, then replace them with the URO41 device.
A bit more info Rich. This morning when the unit went dead, just like before, no lights, nothing.
I took my meater and measured the AC voltage at the overload and PTC relays, both showed no voltage. After a few minutes of waiting I heared a slight click from somewhere and the voltage returned and the unit came back to life. The compressor started normally.
Is there some other voltage cut off device in these units?
HB
There is no shutoff in the fridg that would interrupt power. I would start at the wall outlet, then check for missing voltage at different places in the fridg.
If there is a control panel connector, I would disconnect it and spray with non-residue contact cleaner available at Wall Mart.
I’ll keep checking Rich. Thanks for all the help.
Hi Rich:
FYI. When it would shut down, I found that when I pushed on the outside of the on/off switch it would sometime start up again.
I pulled the AC plug and inspected the four contacts on the on/off switch. I found that one contact (all four contacts use a quick disconnect system) had signs of being burnt and somewhat corroded with black residue. Remember this unit is 12 years old, so it could have been building up since new.
I replaced that quick disconnect plug, cleaned all four contacts, insured that all four were making good contact, and fired it up.
So far the problem seems to have been cured. I suspected that because it was so intermittent, it would turn out to be something weird like this. I wanted to pass it on for your knowledge base.
Again, thanks for all the help Rich.
Howie Burch
Very good, I thought it would be something like this.