kitchenaid Dishwasher not filling

Two weeks ago I dishwasher stopped working. Replaced the electronic control circuit and everything was working OK until last weekend.

Dishwasher will not fill and start program. Rest of lights on control panel working OK and the dishwasher will run through its cancel/drain cycle ok – just will not start its was cycle.

Tried replacing control panel thinking that the start button was worn. No difference. Have checked that the latch door and fill overflow switch with a multimeter and they seem to be ok and working correctly. Also measured the resistance of the water inlet valve and this seemed ok.

Any ideas on what to check next? Could the replacement electronic box/circuit have already malfunctioned?

Thanks.

What does it do (if it does anything) when it should fill? Blinking lights or sounds?

Check all wires and connections.

Here is the [B]Tech sheet[/B].

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5134999

Gene.

Thanks for the post. The plot deepens - now have it filling! Water comes in and fills to the correct amount. The machine then "lightly buzzes" for a short while and then empties. The washing part of the program does not start. Yesterday I removed the sump and cleaned it out (down to the cutter blade and fine mesh). The only way I describe is that it sounds like the machine does not want to through the water a round in side (does that make sense).

Phil

Thanks. It is now filling but does not go into the wash cycle. Any ideas?

Phil

Are any control panel light blinking?

If not, perform the diagnostic as described in the Tech sheet.

Gene.

When the spin cycle is supposed to start the tub won’t turn unless I open up the top and then closed it. Even after it does spin, it is not spinning all the water out of the clothes

Sounds like you may have a weak clutch or a worn basket drive block; and a bad lid switch.

what does F22 mean? runs for one minute & shuts off.

— Begin quote from greatergraces@yahoo.com;332491

what does F22 mean? runs for one minute & shuts off.

— End quote

Greatergraces,

I can’t find an F22 code for a WP dryer,

Are you sure about that fail code ?

If you could get us a proper model number, we’d be more helpful, and can assist you better.

Thanks,

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

:o ) yes does flash F-22 read at the bottem of page quote=Joe / APP Team;332503]Greatergraces,

I can’t find an F22 code for a WP dryer,

Are you sure about that fail code ?

If you could get us a proper model number, we’d be more helpful, and can assist you better.

Thanks,

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :)/quote Model # is WED6200SW1 Dryer does come on using any temperature settings but shuts off after 1 minute then Flashes F-22 .On temperature setting air only dryer does operate through time setting but the temperature stays extremely hot. thank you for your help we appreciate.

— Begin quote from greatergraces@yahoo.com;332532

— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;332503

Greatergraces,

I can’t find an F22 code for a WP dryer,

Are you sure about that fail code ?

If you could get us a proper model number, we’d be more helpful, and can assist you better.

Thanks,

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

— End quote

Greatgraces,

Thanks,

Of course you’re correct, your dryer does have a F22 code.

That code indicates that the Exhaust thermistor resistance is out of specified range,

You added something,

On timed dry, air dry setting(no heat), the dryer gets extremely hot ?

Is that correct ?

I was hoping you just had a clogged vent or bad thermistor, but with that information, we’ve got another problem, shorted element, shorted wires, bad control board,

You should get a multi meter, so you can check resistances and circuits, or
disconnect the exhaust venting from the back of the dryer and run it on air dry, then a heat cycle and varify, that there’s heat in the air dry(no heat) setting.

We’ll keep an eye out for your response,

Good Luck,

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

— End quote

:o HELP yes said F-22 read at the bootom of page
— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;332503

Greatergraces,

I can’t find an F22 code for a WP dryer,

Are you sure about that fail code ?

If you could get us a proper model number, we’d be more helpful, and can assist you better.

Thanks,

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

— End quote

greatergrace already have dissconnected exhaust & air dryer is very hot,we already put part that we order on .

— Begin quote from greatergraces@yahoo.com;335123

greatergrace already have dissconnected exhaust & air dryer is very hot,we already put part that we order on .

— End quote

Greatergraces,

So much for the easy stuff,

I was not aware you replaced a part, what part did you replace ?

Now,

You’ll need to access the rear of the dryer, remove the back panel,

[LEFT]1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the rear panel [/LEFT]

[LEFT]3. To remove the thermal cutoff (TCO)[/LEFT]

[LEFT]a) Remove the two wires from the TCO
terminals.
b) Remove the hex-head screw, unhook
the end of the bracket, and remove
the TCO.
4. To remove the heater and inlet thermistor/
high-limit thermostat
a) Lift the locking tab and remove the
2-wire connector from the inlet thermistor.
b) Remove the wire connector from the
high-limit thermostat terminal.
c) Remove the two wire connectors from[/LEFT]
the heater terminal block.

Check for a resistance reading from each terminal to the flue box/housing. any resistance would indicate a shorted element and you’d need to replace the heater assembly.

[LEFT][FONT=ArialMT]d) Remove the two hex-head screws from
the heater assembly and remove the[/LEFT]
assembly.

[LEFT]e) Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry the
inlet thermistor terminal off the heater
terminal, and remove the thermistor from[/LEFT]
the assembly.

[part]AP3094254[/part]
[/FONT]

The next step would be,

to access the main control board,

[LEFT]1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Turn off gas supply to dryer.
3. Remove the two mounting screws from
the rear of the console.
4. Lift the console off the cabinet and position[/LEFT]
it off to the side.

[FONT=Arial-BoldMT]To remove the machine control:[LEFT]
[LEFT]a) Disconnect the machine control board
connectors at P8, P9, P13, and P14,
then pull the red and black wires off the
heater relay terminals. NOTE: On dual
element models, also disconnect the
violet and black wires from the second
heater relay terminals.[/LEFT]

[LEFT]Once you’ve removed the wires from the heater relay,
with a multi meter, there should be no resistance across the two terminals on the relay, if there is, the relay is stuck closed, and causing the element to be on in all settings, and you’ll need a machine control board. [/LEFT]

[LEFT][part]AP4359310[/part][/LEFT]

[LEFT]I’m pretty sure you’ll find your problem in one of these areas, [/LEFT]

[LEFT]or the wiring to one or the other.[/LEFT]

[LEFT]Good Luck,[/LEFT]

[LEFT]:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile: [/LEFT]
[/FONT]
[/LEFT]