Our Kitchen Aid fridge began having issues yesterday. My mother in law tripped a ground fault circuit that is before the fridge while I was at work. I came home and reset the circuit and the fridge started back up. When it started back up, the interior lights would not work. They are all LED so its not a bulb socket issue. Also the Ice dispenser did not work, the water dispenser didn’t work and the controls on the door were all lit up and would respond to touch but then they would quickly default back within 3 seconds.
I couldnt make any changed on any settings. I unplugged the fridge and gave it a bit and plugged it back in. It didnt change anything.
I pulled out the Ice bin and it was jammed up with a hunk of ice. I remember earlier that morning, i tried to get ice out and the motor spun but it couldnt get the ice out and it seemed jammed. I put everything back together and nothing changed.
I noticed this morning that everything on the control panel is lit up. Normally they turn off when its not being used.
I cant find the model number for the fridge. There is nothing on the doors or inside the fridge. It is similar and could be KRMF706ESS. It looks the same as that one.
Where can I find the tag that has the actual model number?
Hi - I’m having the exact same issue. Fridge was working fine. Opened the door and no LED lights on for any of the doors. Front control panel lights up, but no water or ice. Fridge and freezer appear to be cooling properly. Any ideas?
Hi friends,if you a wondering why the light in your kitchenaid 5 door refrigerator goes out. It has something to do with the meat,beverage, cheese drawer display plug.i have spent two hour trouble shooting this problem all lights out and water and ice inoperable. Just unplug the plug behind the door and all light and water will work I am still trying to figure out what part is causing this but all light and water is working. Hope this help😊
Hi friends,if you a wondering why the light in your kitchenaid 5 door refrigerator goes out. It has something to do with the meat,beverage, cheese drawer display plug.i have spent two hour trouble shooting this problem all lights out and water and ice inoperable. Just unplug the plug behind the door and all light and water will work I am still trying to figure out what part is causing this but all light and water is working. Hope this help�� I will post the part needed soon once I look into this further.
Hi Jamel, if you figured out the part that fixes the drawer display plug problem please post the details. I am also having the same problem. The alarm stopped after unplugging the drawer connector and powering on/off the fridge. Now I am wondering what part is faulty.
We unplugged that plug, and the lights all came on and the water started running out for a couple seconds. We plugged the plug back in. Fridge is fixed! THANK YOU!!!
We unplugged that plug, and the lights all came on and the water started running out for a couple seconds. We plugged the plug back in. Fridge is fixed! THANK YOU!!!
My KitchenAid refrigerator model KRMF706ESS01 purchased in 2017 also had a problem with the lights in all compartments going out, odd issues with the water and ice dispensers not working, and the open door red light would stay on, and of course chirp, even when everything was closed. I could press the water dispenser and nothing would come out, but if I then opened the left drawer water would spray out on the floor and into the left drawer. Resetting main power did not help. But, I discovered that the left drawer seemed to be the source of the problem. I could fiddle with the drawer or the cable on the left underside of the drawer and make the problems go away. The comments in this forum led me to removing the the control panel on the left drawer by prying around the edges (top side of the panel first) with putty knife and simply disconnecting the two cable connectors from the circuit board on the back on the panel. Then, I re-inserted the disconnected panel. All problems are solved. I can no longer adjust anything with that control panel but the drawer is still usable, the same temp as the main refrigerator which hovers around 38-40 degrees (even though I have it set for 33 degrees). I’m OK with that the drawer control panel not working because a replacement costs $300 - $360. Possible cause: water had been getting into the space behind that control panel anytime water drip onto the left drawer. The seal around the control panel is poor at best. Water may have ruined the circuit board (even though it appears to be sealed) connected to the control panel. Thanks to this forum for helping me avoid a large repair bill.
I’m having the same problem. Removing the plugs works for me too. I cannot believe it is 270 for the panel. I came here to find out about how to test the wires coming in because the space for the board is completely dry.
There is a cable that has a continuity test sticker on it. Any tips specific to the KRMF706ESS01 would be appreciated.
Has anyone figured this out? I am having the same issue and not sure which part to buy…I have unplugged both the wire behind the door and pried the panel up on the drawer and disconnected it…then I turned off for more than 10 minutes and turned back on:
The drawer selection panel has been out for a year or so, so don’t think replacing that will fix the new situation? since the other functions worked for so long previously
a few days ago in the beginning: just off and restarting for a few days all functions working
New symptoms:
No lights inside the refrigerator and not cooling anymore
When moving the left drawer out…lights on upper main panel come on and beeps…sometimes lights stay on permanently sometimes nothing.
When the lights stay on:
No Water
NO Ice
light works high, low and off
can set temp and showroom switch, etc
This part did not fix my issue: W10624574 wpw10624574 Whirlpool Refrigerator Electronic power supply board. This is the smaller board on top.
I will try main control board next and let everyone know.
Main board did not fix all the issues, but is not cooling
I replaced the front panel because when you cold the temp adjust button for 3 seconds it would flash…new panel fixed this issue but still not water or ice.
Remaining issues:
LED lights not working…probably the Led Board…
No water or Ice…not sure why these are not working still
We just experienced this issue on our Kitchen Aid refrigerator that is about 4 years old. Unplugging the drawer control panel allowed the refrigerator to work as expected. However, while cleaning the refrigerator before reassembly, I noticed that one of the wires that runs to the panel was actually broken. The wire had broken in half about a foot and a half back from the connector. At first, it wasn’t noticeable because there is a protective sleeve over the wire harness. I was able to push back the sleeve to find the other end of the wire and splice it back together. Once I did that and plugged the control panel back in the refrigerator continued to work as expected.
I suggest the others experiencing this issue check the wiring harness for broken wires as well.
My 5 door KitchenAid refrigerator KRMF606ESS00 was going crazy.
I had several problems at once. The refrigerator’s door ajar signal kept beeping repeatedly even though all doors were clearly closed. Deli drawer panel buttons were non responsive. Plus, the water/ice dispenser and the deli drawer panel only intermittently worked. Sometimes it even dispensed water upon opening the deli drawer. Lights inside the fridge were often off when I opened the left door. There appeared to be no communication between any of the sensor or end functions on the big upper left door and deli drawer. Repairing the wire harness completely fixed all issues.
Turns out, 3 of the 5 wires were broken in my wire harness. Depending on where the the break is, it may be hard for someone to see this just by opening the deli drawer. My wires were broken way in the back… not within easy access. In my opinion, this problem happens because of a KitchenAid design flaw where the harness can be caught in a groove within the deli drawer slide assembly so that when you close the drawer sometimes the wires get cut. The nylon sleeve that KitchenAid uses over the harness wires isn’t stiff enough to prevent the wire assembly from a) sneaking into the slide assembly grooves or b) protecting the trapped wires from being cut inside the slide assembly when you close the drawer.
If you go through the trouble of doing this procedure, be sure to add some protective wire wrap tubing. Whether you repair the wires yourself like I did or buy a brand new wire harness, you can stuff all the wires including the nylon sleeve into the tubing. It’ll prevent the wires from being caught in the slide assembly. I wish KitchenAid engineers would have done this in the initial design. It would have saved me and others some aggravation, money and probably improve their reputation.
FYI…instead of buying a new wire harness I was able to reconnect the broken wire ends with butt connectors (10 pack for $1.50 at Harbor Freight). The 1/4" wire wrap tubing costs $3.50. Use some electrical tape around some of the tubing if you want to keep things bundled up neatly. You can fix this problem for $1.50 but spend another $3.50 to prevent it from happening again.