i have a kitchenaid gas stove. the burners work but the oven won’t lite.
[INDENT]the bake and roast do nothing
and the broil clicks twice but doesn’t open the gas and therefore does not lite.
i replaced the spark module as i was told… and it did not fix the problem.
the spark module came with directions talking about serial codes starting with rk01-rk33.???
if they mean serial number? mine begins with a xt
it goes on about cutting a red wire and then disconnect a wire in the back… well i didn’t want to do that because my serial number doesn’t match.
please help on a levels
i need to make pizza
thanks
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This part is not too difficult to replace yourself if you know how to handle a simple tools. Pull the range out of the wall and shut off the gas. Before you’ll remove the wires from the valve/regulator draw a picture of them so you will know where to put them on the new part. Tight all gas line connectors to prevent possible gas leak. I would recommend to call a local gas company after you’ll be done to check all connections with a gas leak detector to make sure everything is safe.
gene
great work!! i just replaced the part, used the yellow teflon gas tape on all joints
fired up first try. one last question. what caused the gas valve/regulator to malfunction? i cook pizza at 500 leave it on for 3 - 5 hours during a party is that it? i only self cleaned it once. does self cleaning break it? any insight would be great.
thanks again.
it’s a good feeling to fix something
cheers
neil
One evening the brioler element blew up, sparks and flames, but the glass top cooking elements and control panel worked just fine with no codes. So i mail ordered both oven elements and installed them, but the oven would not get hot. It clicked and took a temperature setting in the control but zero heat inside the oven. So i joined this forum and read around some, Nice Forum here. I learned that the control panel was bad too, and since I just paid 140.00 for new elements, I wanted to see why the control panel went out before spending anymore money. So I turned off the breaker in the house breaker panel unplugged the oven removed the rear panel. All the wires were connect well and no visible problems. Next I removed the control panel, on the rear side there are two circut boards stacked on top of one another and connected on one end by some bare looking wires. I remove the screws on the circut board and carefully opened the back circut board, like opening a book, about halfway and stopped. On the inside of the rear circut board was a wire protruding through the board, that had been soldered at the factory, which was missing the solder. It had been melted away when the broiler element blew out. I just simply re-soldered the wire on the circut board, put everything back together, and the oven has been working just perfectly for 2 months. Hope this save someone 175.00 for a new control panel.
I am responding to this ticket instead of opening a new one. We currently have the same problem and have a kitchen aid KGSA906PSS02. The bake and broiler are not igniting with propane anymore. I hear two clicks and then nothing lights. The stovetop burner works fine.
Can you point me to which part I should be purchasing. Is it the gas valve that would be behind the bottom drawer with three cables connecting to it? I’m new to this, and want to make sure I follow all steps accurately. (if i need to turn of gas, etc)
Very likely the problem is a bad valve/regulator but because this part is very expensive you may want to check it as described on the first page of this thread. You also can find the disassembly instructions on the first page.
Thanks so much for the response Gene. I bought a digital multimeter, but was getting a bit lost on how to test. Am I putting the black needle on the top solenoid and then the red on the other ones?
When you do continuity test it does not mater which test probe where goes.
The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter
Thanks again Gene. I am receiving the gas valve tomorrow and will be giving it a go. Before I go ahead and remove the current one, I just want to run through the steps one more time (Sorry I know they are all in the previous posts, but I am the type who needs to be certain)
I will follow your instructions word for word - and won’t bug you any further about this The parts I wont to make sure about primarily are how to physically remove and replace the gas valve, and reconnecting the gas line with the yellow teflon tape.
Hello, I’m very frustrated with my oven… I have a kitchenaid gas convection oven, model kgsa906pss02. I’m on a tight budget I’m pretty good at fixing things so I trying with this.
I had the same problem as another forum member, Neil I think, where the gas wouldn’t turn on in the oven. Cooktop was ok.
It made two click sounds and then nothing. The element works, but it’s only ok for cookies, not cakes! So the broil igniter and bake igniters were replaced by myself, thinking that would do it but nope…still the same. Keeping the old ones just in case since I can’t return these parts.
Tested the thermal fuse, it has continuity.
Don’t have a multimeter but had appliance store test it for me. I need to get one of those.
I’m worried about having to replace either the safety valve or the oven control board as they are both 300$ parts :((( how can I test these parts to see if they are the culprits, and if it’s with the multimeter, where do I touch the probes onto?
Would it be wise to have a licensed technician come to replace safety valve if it does turn out to be the problem? Liability wise
The parts I wont to make sure about primarily are how to physically remove and replace the gas valve, and reconnecting the gas line with the yellow teflon tape.
I’m pretty good at fixing things so I trying with this.