I would replace the control board in the back AP4411082
I actually provided incorrect information. The fan is still running, even with the fridge temps at the set levels.
Still go ahead with the AP4411082?
Chris
Pull off the freezer back panel and describe the frost pattern, total light frost, or partial.
— Begin quote from richappy;730022
Pull off the freezer back panel and describe the frost pattern, total light frost, or partial.
— End quote
I would interpret it as a "total light frost". A white, fuzzy coating across all fins and tubing.
I did notice that whenever I opened the door to move food out, or remove hardware, the freezer would heat up (of course), and the door frame would also. I boosted the box fan speed again to push temps back down.
Update: 7:30pm - Freezer evap coils are now thawing and freezer temp is rising. Fan is not running. Divider is not hot. It’s cool.
Update: 7:40pm - Coils thawed completely. The compressor kicked on, but no fan. Divider is warming. Freezer temp about 28F. Coils are refreezing.
Update: 8:15pm - I turned off the box fan to see if the on-board fan would trigger if the condenser coils got hot. No joy. Box fan is back on. Temps are dropping.
Update: 10:15pm - Freezer still at 14F. Fan has not been on when I’ve checked. Divider is lukewarm to cool. Evaporator coil has heavier frost at top and is almost clear at bottom.
??
Chris
Turn the controls to the coldest setting and measure the stabilized freezer temperature.
— Begin quote from richappy;730199
Turn the controls to the coldest setting and measure the stabilized freezer temperature.
— End quote
Freezer set at -6F. Reads -6F.
Fridge set at 32F. Reads 32F.
I also realized this morning that leaving the evaporator coil cover off reduced the ability for the system to draw air over the coils, so I reinstalled the cover and the freezer temps dropped right down.
I’m still using the box fan to push air over the condenser coils though…
Chris
Good,no refrigeration problems, points to a bad board I mentioned, unless you want to keep the box fan on it permanently.
Ok. I replaced the second control board. Condenser fan now seems to be operating normally (every time I check, it’s running).
However, occasionally the compressor will get more noisy (same noise, just louder) and the freezer temp will elevate. It’s like clockwork: compressor noise increases, check the temps, freezer is elevating, divider gets hot, eventually temps go back to normal.
Ideas?
Chris
If you have a meter, I would start by monitoring the voltage to the fridg from the wall outlet, seems like you have a power problem.
— Begin quote from richappy;733755
If you have a meter, I would start by monitoring the voltage to the fridg from the wall outlet, seems like you have a power problem.
— End quote
I have a basic multi meter, but nothing that would record activity. Do I need a long-term record, or just to monitor for a few minutes? What am I looking for?
Chris
The inverter box has a discolored spot on the side away from the compressor that is warm to the touch.
Chris
Your inverter box might be overheating and shutting down periodically. I would check inside to confirm.
Also,measure the input voltage to the fridg when you have a problem.
— Begin quote from richappy;734253
Your inverter box might be overheating and shutting down periodically. I would check inside to confirm.
Also,measure the input voltage to the fridg when you have a problem.
— End quote
Compressor is currently more noisy than normal. Freezer temp is 7F, but this seems to be the "normal" temp when the compressor is noisy. Voltage at the wall is 122.5 +/- .1.
Chris
Evidence points to a bad inverter box, unfortunately, there is no easy way to test the compressor except to install a new inverter box. One way to verify the inverter box is bad is to check the total current into the inverter box. Lower than normal current would confirm a bad inverter box.
— Begin quote from richappy;734546
Evidence points to a bad inverter box, unfortunately, there is no easy way to test the compressor except to install a new inverter box. One way to verify the inverter box is bad is to check the total current into the inverter box. Lower than normal current would confirm a bad inverter box.
— End quote
I have a new inverter box (purchased from here), and I’m trying to install it, but I’m having a tough time getting to the connectors on the compressor. I’ve got the other connectors disconnected and the inverter box out on the floor, but I can’t figure out how to get the black plastic cover off of the connector box on the side of the compressor. Without this cover off, I can’t get to the connectors at all.
What’s the trick to getting that cover off?
Thanks,
Chris
Never mind. I got it. New inverter is installed and fridge is plugged back in. Fan and compressor kicked on right away. I’ve got my fingers crossed.
I also added a 1-outlet APC surge protector to perhaps prevent this fro happening again.
Chris
I have never worked on these, you might want to re-post this for somebody else to explain. Only thing I can advise is to pry open the old box with a screwdriver, then you will see how it is held together.
— Begin quote from richappy;737357
I have never worked on these, you might want to re-post this for somebody else to explain. Only thing I can advise is to pry open the old box with a screwdriver, then you will see how it is held together.
— End quote
I was referencing the black plastic cover on the side of the compressor that covers where the inverter-compressor lead is connected to the side of the compressor. This was not replaced, so there is no old box to open.
There are a couple of tech articles indicating that you can open the inverter box. Both the original and the new inverter box had epoxy over the screw head that needs to be removed in order to access the inverter internals. This is an indication to me that the inverter box is no longer to be serviced, although it might be done to discourage opening of the inverter box because too many thought it was the housing for the main control board.
Chris
Glad you got it going. The old inverter box had one phase blown out, it would have been nice to confirm the failure by opening the box.